H«W  TO  LAYOUT 
SUBURBAN  HOME 


;RBERT  j.  KEI  AWAY 


I  away   - 


Southern  Branch 
of  the 

Diversity  of  California 

Los  Angeles 


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PLATI     I.      I-'IC<INTI»I'H  .  i 

A  Miiall  quiet  nook  of  a  place  nestled  ainnnsr  trees, 
and  carpeted  with  green  around.  And  there  a  brook 
should  murmur  with  a  voice  of  outdoor  happiness. — 
Ami.  thru  hrultli  in  balm  should  couie  ah<>ut  my  |>:ith 
ami  my  miml  be  as  a  part  of  every  fragrant  (him:  tliat 
shona  and  grew  around  me.  — DOI'OLA*  JKKIKM  i>. 


HOW   TO   LAY   OUT 

SUBURBAN  HOME 

GROUNDS 


BY 

HERBERT  J.  KELLAWAY 

LANDSCAPE  ARCHITECT 


FIRST  EDITION 

FIRST   THOUSAND 


NEW  YORK 
JOHN    WILEY   &    SONS 

LONDON  :   CHAPMAN   &   HALL,  LIMITED 
1907 

(  eoo^ 

UtC      1908 


COPYRIGHT,  1907, 
HERBERT  J.   KELLAWAV 


^  15 
!  3 

K 


PREFACE. 

OUTDOOR  art  is  to-day  recognized  as  necessary  to  the  com- 
pletion of  a  home.  What  are  the  best  methods  to  pursue  ,in 
designing  small  suburban  grounds?  As  an  assistance  to  those 
with  moderate  incomes  wishing  to  secure  beautiful  surround- 
ings, the  following  thoughts  are  written.  They  are  not  intended 
to  deal  with  the  treatment  of  large  estates  or  explain  the  many 
principles  of  landscape  architecture,  but  only  as  an  incentive 
to  good  taste. 

The  need  for  planning  and  "counting  the  cost"  before  begin- 
ning the  construction  of  the  house  is  apparent.  The  problem 
should  be  treated  as  a  whole,  rather  than  to  consider  the 
grounds  as  an  afterthought. 

It  is  not  my  intention  that  the  plans  and  sketches  shown 
shall  be  designs  to  be  carried  out,  but  only  as  an  example  of 
what  can  be  done.  Every  site  presents  conditions  and  oppor- 
tunities which  should  be  taken  advantage  of  in  the  develop- 
ment. As  every  locality  has  plants  that  are  indigenous  to 
the  region,  it  seems  useless  to  merely  give  an  extended  list  of 
trees  and  shrubs,  but  to  direct  the  reader  to  a  means  of  securing 
the  knowledge  in  one's  own  community. 

In  the  hope  that  many  may  be  inspired  to  seek  better  things 
about  the  home  this  small  work  is  sent  forth. 

HERBERT  J.  KELLAWAY. 

BOSTON,  MASS.,  June,  1907. 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 
CHAPTER   I 

How  TO  BEGIN  A  SUBURBAN  HOME  —  PLANNING  BEFORE  BEGINNING  .       3 

CHAPTER  II 

CHOOSING  THE  HOMESITE  —  THE  TREATMENT  OF  DIFFICULT  SITUATIONS       8 

CHAPTER  III 
PRACTICAL  UTILITIES  AND  ART  COMBINED 16 

CHAFFER   IV 

OWNERSHIP  —  THE    SURVEY  —  THE    PRELIMINARY    PLAN    AND    THE 

GRADING  PLAN 23 

CHAPTER   V 
A  GOOD  DESIGN  NEEDS  GOOD  CONSTRUCTION ,    .     31 

CHAPTER   VI 

ARCHITECTURAL  ADORNMENTS  ON  THE  GROUNDS 50 

CHAPTER   VII 
How  TO  MAKE  A  LAWN .    .    <    .     55 

CHAPTER   VIII 
WHAT  TO  PLANT  AND  How  TO  MAKE  THE  PLANTING  PLAN 64 

CHAFFER  IX 
How  AND  WHEN  TO  PLANT 79 

CHAPTER   X 

How  TO  KNOW  THE  PLANTS  TO  USE  —  THE  SPHERE  OF  THE  LANDSCAPE 
ARCHITECT  —  THE  VALUE  OF  GOOD  DESIGN 91 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

PLATE  I. Frontispiece 

PLATE  II.  House  Designed  in  Harmony  with  Natural  Conditions  ...  5 

PLATE  III.  A  Well  Developed  Suburban  Community 5 

PLATE  IV.  An  Example  of  Good  Development 9 

PLATE  V.  Winter  Scene 9 

PLATE  VI.  A  "Back  yard  "  made  with  a  Simple  Lawn  and  Garden  .  .  17 
PLATE  VII.  The  Rear  of  the  House  Made  into  a  Terrace  Garden  with 

Sundial 17 

PLATE  VIII.  Walled  Flower  Garden,  Street  Side 21 

PLATE  IX.  Walled  Flower  Garden,  Inside  View 21 

PLATE  X.  Drive  Located  on  Simple  Curves 33 

PLATE  XI.  Steps  and  Walk  Made  to  Fit  Slope 41 

PLATE  XII.  Shrubbery  at  Base  of  House 41 

PLATE  XIII.  Stepping  Stones  to  Overcome  a  Grade 45 

PLATE  XIV.  A  Well  Built  Wall 45 

PLATE  XV.  Kitchen  Entrance  Screened  in  Conjunction  with  Laundry 

Yard 47 

PLATE  XVI.  One  Type  of  Laundry  Yard  Fence 47 

PLATE  XVII.  Wall  Built  of  Boulders  and  Ledge  Stones,  covered  with 

Vines 53 

PLATE  XVIII.  Service  Entrance  to  Estate 53 

PLATE  XIX.  A  Terrace  Flower  Garden  57 

PLATE  XX.  A  Flower  Garden,  Box  Bordered 57 

PLATE  XXI.  Brick  Walk  in  a  Terrace  Flower  Garden  .......  59 

PLATE  XXII.  A  Flower  Bordered  Walk 59 

PLATE  XXIII.  Wall  and  Gate  at  Kitchen  Entrance 71 

PLATE  XXIV.  A  Brick  Boundary  Wall 71 

PLATE  XXV  A  Tree  and  Shrub  Embordered  Lawn 73 

PLATE  XXVI.  An  Open  Lawn  Between  House  and  Street 73 

PLATE  XXVII.  Natural  Style  of  Treatment .  .  .  77 

PLATE  XXVIII.  Natural  Style  of  Development 77 

ix 


Illustrations. 


PLATE  XXIX.  Aprear.mce  of  House  Before  Planting  ................  81 

PLATE  XXX.   Appearance  of  House  After  Planting  .    .  .        ...  81 

PLATE  XXXI.  Appearance  of  House  and  Grounds  Before  Treatment  .  86 
PLATE  XXXII  Appearance  of  House  and  Grounds  After  Study  and 

Development  ...............  85 

PLATE  XXXIII.  Appearance  of  House  and  Grounds  After  Grading  and 

Before  Planting     ..............  *•» 

PLATE  XXXIV.  Appearance  of  House  and  Grounds  After  Study  and 

Planting  ..........................  S9 

PLATE  XXXV.   Terrace  Garden,  Herbaceous  Perennials  ......  93 

PLATE  XXXVI.   Herbaceous  Flower  Garden  ............  93 

PLATE  XXXVII.  Simple  Treatment  of  Ordinary  House     ......  95 

PLATE  XXXVIII.  Simple  Entrance  to  Kitchen  Porch  and  Yard  ...  95 


PLANS   AND   MAPS. 

PAGE 

PLAN  I.    Preliminary  Plan  for  Treatment  of  Level  Open  Lot 13 

PLAN  II.   Topographical  Map  Estate  "A" 25 

PLAN  III.   Preliminary  Plan  for  Estate  "A" 27 

PLAN  IV.   Grading  Plan  for  Estate  "A"      31 

PLAN  V.   Simple  Treatment  of  Nearly  Level  Lot 39 

PLAN  VI.    Planting  Plan  Estate  "A" 67 

PLAN  VII.   Tape  Measured  Survey  of  Estate  "  B " 99 

PLAN  VIII.   Preliminary  Plan  for  Estate  "  B" 101 

PLAN  IX.   Preliminary  Plan  for  Estate  "C" 103 

PLAN  X.   Topographical  Map  of  Estate  "C" 103 

PLAN  XI.   Cross  Section  of  Estate  "C" 103 

PLAN  XII.    Preliminary  Plan  of  Estate  "D"       104 

PLAN  XIII.   Topographical  Map  of  Estate  "D" 105 

PLAN  XIV.   Topographical  Map  of  Estate  "E"     .    .    .    „ 107 

PLAN  XV.    Preliminary  Plan  for  Estate  "E'; ,    .   .  109 


HOW    TO    LAY    OUT    SUBURBAN 
HOME    GROUNDS. 


TT  SITING  out  grounds,  as  it  is  called,  may  be  considered  as  a  liberal 
J  ^  art,  in  some  sort  like  poetry  and  painting ;  and  its  object,  like 
that  of  all  the  liberal  arts,  is,  or  ought  to  be,  to  move  the 
affections  under  the  control  of  good  sense ;  that  is,  those  of  the  best 
and  wisest;  but  speaking  with  more  precision,  it  is  to  assist  Nature 
in  moving  the  affections,  and  surely,  as  I  have  said,  the  affections 
of  those  who  have  the  deepest  perception  of  the  beauty  of  Nature ; 
who  have  the  most  valuable  fee/ings,  that  is,  the  most  permanent,  and 
most  independent,  the  most  ennobling,  connected  with  Nature  and 
human  life.  —  WILLIAM  WORDSWORTH. 


CHAPTER  I. 


And  a  Man  shall  ever  see,  that  when  Ages  grow 
to  Civility  and  Elegance,  Men  come  to  build 
stately,  sooner  than  to  garden  finely;  as  if 
Gardening  were  the  Greater  Perfection.  — 
FRANCIS  BACON. 

|HE  first  man,  Adam,  began  life  in  Paradise,  the 
garden  of  Eden.  Is  it  too  much  to  say  that  the 
home  spirit  is  inborn;  the  love  of  home  a  force  and 
the  desire  to  own  a  home  the  crown  of  a  man's  am- 
bition? The  mystical  ideal  is  ever  present  not  in  mere  wood, 
stone,  and  land,  but  is  clothed  about  with  life.  The  memories 
of  childhood  days  are  of  the  living  things,  the  home  folk,  the 
animals,  the  trees,  the  flowers.  There  is  no  deep  attachment 
to  inanimate  objects  unless  embodied  with  the  mystery  of  home 
life  and  spirit.  Man  wants  a  home.  t  The  delights  of  ownership 
and  the  responsibilities  are  subject  to  the  same  laws,  whether 
it  is  the  rich  man  in  his  palace  or  the  poor  man  in  his  meagre 
cottage.  The  ability  to  realize  and  attain  the  ideal  is  limited 
by  circumstances.  Often  the  supposed  excessive  expense  is 
in  the  imagination. 

If  the  ideal  were  made  tangible  in  the  form  of  a  well  out- 
lined plan  of  action  and  development  the  desired  result  would 
be  secured.  Without  such  plan  not  infrequently  funds  are  spent 
in  securing  poor  or  second-class  treatment  of  the  home  grounds. 
Can  the  ideal  be  attained?  Yes;  perhaps  not  all  at  once, 
but  little  by  little  as  funds  permit.  The  scheme  must  be  out- 
lined and  a  determined  and  settled  purpose  will  accomplish 
what  was  seemingly  the  unattainable.  The  house  is  usually 
the  first  thought.  Instead  the  beginning  should  be  on  the 
ground,  the  location,  quality,  surroundings,  and  possibilities 


4  How  to  Lay  Out 

for  development.  The  adaptability  of  the  site  to  secure  the 
ideals  of  the  home  builder  should  be  considered,  whether  it  is 
a  shrub  embordered  lawn,  a  flower  garden,  or  natural  or  wild 
grounds.  It  is  possible  to  create  effects  on  almost  any  site, 
but  every  natural  feature  should  be  utilized.  A  home  well 
begun  is  half  done.  Consideration  should  be  given,  besides 
the  cost,  to  the  "upkeep"  or  maintenance.  The  cheapest 
method  of  development  and  least  cost  for  care  is  to  have  mostly 
lawn  and  shrubbery.  The  more  details  planned,  such  as  arbors, 
terraces,  and  gardens,  the  greater  will  be  the  expense  for  keep- 
ing them  in  order.  See  Plates  II,  VIII,  IX,  and  XX. 

Moderate  places  can  be  kept  in  order  as  a  morning  and  even- 
ing exercise  to  the  busy  city  worker.  If  larger  ground*  an 
attempted  it  may  be  necessary  to  hire  a  man  by  the  day  occa- 
sionally or  secure  his  services  permanently.  This  cxpens.  ,  an 
be  found  by  inquiry  as  to  prevailing  rates.  Another  item 
of  expense  that  should  be  thought  of,  is  the  purchase  of  fer- 
tilizers and  materials  for  repairs. 

It  is  a  good  idea  not  to  attempt  too  much  or  plan  beyond 
one's  means  or  possible  future  income. 

Often  one  sees  a  house  occupying  the  larger  portion  of  the 
grounds,  built  out  of  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  lot  available. 
Such  large  houses  give  the  idea  of  a  one-sided  life.  It  i-  an 
inside  life,  not  broad  and  cheering  as  the  home  plot  well  devel- 
oped can  give. 

The  house  is  usually  the  first  thought  and  when-  shall  it 
be  placed,  it  being  a  universal  feeling  that  anyone  can  locate 
a  house.  The  inexperienced  usually  determines  the  location 
of  the  grounds  without  serious  consideration  as  to  the  loca- 
tion of  the  walks,  drives,  lawns,  clothes  drying  yard,  coal  hole, 
or  sufficient  thought  as  to  sunlight.  A  fine  view  i-  often  the 
determining  point.  This,^tt  first,  may  be  inspiring  to  the 
owner  and  to  the  occasional  visitor,  but  the  effect  of  the  views 
gradually  wears  away.  Consideration  of  comfort,  sunlight, 
and  air  are  more  lasting  and  need  serious  thought. 


PLATED  II.     House  designed  to  harmonize  with  red  cedars  existing  on  the 
ground,  showing  good  taste. 


PLATE  III.     A  well  studied  development  of  a  suburban  community,  stepping 
stones  in  lawn  lead  to  covered  gate. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  7 

This  method  of  procedure  often  involves  the  owner  in  much 
needless  expense,  whereas  a  far  better  result  can  be  obtained 
by  planning  before  beginning. 

There  is  as  much  reason  for  planning  the  grounds  as  there 
is  for  planning  the  house.  The  position  for  the  various  depart- 
ments, such  as  the  front  approach,  the  servants'  approach, 
the  laundry  yard,  the  stable  yard,  flower  garden,  tennis  court, 
lawn,  location  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  grading  should  all 
be  determined  before  beginning  the  work.  Each  department 
should  bear  its  proper  relation  to  the  other. 

No  dream  paper  plan  that  is  drawn  to  look  pretty  and  pleas- 
ing will  do,  but  one  that  is  made  to  fit  the  ground,  and  to  utilize 
all  the  available  existing  materials. 

Emphasis  is  often  laid  upon  the  plants  and  planting. 
Greater  stress  should  be  put  upon  the  design  and  arrangement. 
The  grourid  must  be  shaped  and  developed  right  for  the  same 
reason  that  jewels  merely  adorn  but  do  not  make  a  woman 
beautiful.  See  Plates  V  and  XXV. 

In  locating  trees  and  shrubs  simply  bear  in  mind  the  present 
and  future  effect  after  the  plants  have  grown  to  maturity.  It 
is  almost  a  truism  that  the  composition  which  looks  so  simple 
and  complete  is  the  hardest  to  attain. 


How  to  Lay  Out 


CHAPTER  II. 

Choose,  then,  between  the  masterpiece  of  gar- 
dening and  the  work  of  nature;  between  what 
is  conventionally  beautiful,  and  what  is  beau- 
tiful without  rule.  —  VICTOR  Hroo. 

|HE  nature  of  man  and  his  tastes  may  be  e\: 
by  the  works  he  does  or  the  choices  he  mak 

Expression  may  be  given  in  the  architectural  or 
formal  style  of  gardening,  while  others  may  l>e 
satisfied  by  the  informal  or  natural  style.  Instead  of  clinging 
to  one  style  there  is  often  a  desire  to  have  both,  a  touch  of 
the  irregular  well  kept  lines  with  an  opportunity  to  retreat  to 
the  easy  flowing  grace  of  the  natural  or  wild  treatment.  See 
Plates  XX VI  and  XX VI I. 

The  choice  of  the  site  is  important  as  providing  opportunity 
for  the  realization  of  these  desires.  Often  a  site  is  chosen  for  no 
other  reason  than  that  a  friend  or  neighbor  will  live  next  door. 

Much  expense  and  disappointment  ina^\  be  saved  by  con>i<l- 
ering  a  few  of  the  following  suggestive  questions  before  pur- 
chasing. 

Are  the  transportation  facilities  to  and  from  business  frequent 
and  satisf actory? 

How  far  distant  are  the  schools,  churches,  physicians,  and 
stores? 

Are  there   proper  regulations  and   provisions  as  to 
lighting*  care  of  the  streets,  and  removal  of  olTal  and  :i.-h»<> 

Is  there  adequate  provision  for  fire  and  police  protection  in 
the  municipality? 

What  are  the  taxes  and  assessments  of  the  nmniripality? 

Is  the  street  accepted  and  maintained  by  the  town,  or  is  it 
a  private  way  to  be  maintained  by  and  at  the  expense  of  the 
abuttere. 


PLATE  IV.     An  example  of  good  suburban  development. 


PLATE  V.     Winter  effect.  .  Even  in  winter  shrubbery  in  masses  is  beautiful 
although  barren  of  leaves. 


SIAIEJVOKMA1.  SCHOOL 

' 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  1  1 

Is  the  street  if  unaccepted  as  a  public  highway  of  the  legal 
width? 

What  is  the  elevation  of  the  district?  Is  it  swampy  or  is  the 
site  subject  to  the  drainage  of  adjoining  land? 

Are  there  stagnant  pools  in  the  neighborhood  causing  the 
breeding  of  mosquitoes? 

Is  the  district  healthy?  Has  it  a  reputation  for  malarial 
infections? 

Has  the  site  been  filled  with  ashes  and  refuse  making  a  poor 
foundation  for  the  house  or  for  the  treatment  of  the  ground? 

Is  there  a  good,  pure  water  supply,  and,  if  wells  are  to  be 
depended  upon,  is  there  any  drainage  from  neighboring  cess- 
pools or  stables  which  is  likely  to  contaminate  the  water? 

Are  there  nuisances  in  the  neighborhood  such  as  piggeries 
or  foul  smelling  factories? 

If  sewers  are  not  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  soil  of  such  a  char- 
acter that  proper  cesspools  can  be  built? 

Is  the  neighborhood  of  such  a  character  that  the  general 
trend  of  improvement  will  be  upward? 

What  is  the  character  of  the  soil  and  subsoil?  Is  it  adapt- 
able for  either  lawns,  trees,  shrubs,  flower  gardens,  vegetable 
gardens,  etc? 

Are  building  materials  available  in  the  vicinity?  —  that  the 
cost  of  building  may  not  be  excessive. 

Are  there  restrictions  as  to  the  minimum  cost  and  character 
of  the  buildings? 

In  well  ordered  communities  on  tracts  of  land  that  have  been 
developed  by  a  competent  landscape  architect,  the  location  of  the 
roads  and  the  shape  of  the  lots  are  determined  so  as  to  provide 
the  best  site  for  the  house  and  development  for  each  lot.  A 
restriction  line  or  building  limit  is  placed  upon  the  ground 
varying  from  25  feet  to  50  feet  in  width  from  the  street  line  to 
secure  a  uniform  arrangement  of  houses.  See  Plates  III  and  IV. 

On  the  side  lines  of  the  lot  a  restriction  line  from  10  to  25 
feet  is  placed  according  to  the  size  and  character  of  the  lot,  so 


1 2  How  to  Lay  Out 

that  any  structures  in  the  form  of  barns  or  out  buildings  may 
not  cut  off  the  light  or  deteriorate  the  value  of  the  next  adjoin- 
ing lot. 

Other  restrictions  are  often  placed  as  to  the  character  of 
buildings  and  the  use  of  shrubbery,  trees,  or  any  incongruous 
objects  which  would  be  detrimental  to  the  artistic  development 
of  the  neighborhood.  \Yell  restricted  land,  other  things  being 
equal,  is  usually  safe  property  to  secure.  Although  the  lir.-t 
enM  for  the  land  may  be  greater,  the  ultimate  success  can  be 
reasonably  assured. 

Is  the  lot  situated  so  that  the  house  and  grounds  will  receive 
a  maximum  amount  of  sunshine?  A  southerly  exposure  is 
best. 

Is  the  lot  located  so  that  the  prevailing  wind  may  be  felt  in 
the  living  rooms  of  the  house?  Usually  the  prevailing  wind 
in  summer  is  from  the  southwest.  With  this  in  mind  1 1n- 
living  rooms  of  the  house  should  be  placed  with  a  southerly  or 
westerly  exposure.  The  kitchen  can  well  be  placed  in  the 
portion  opposite  to  the  prevailing  wind  that  the  odors  may 
be  carried  away  from  the  house.  To  obtain  these  benefits  in 
special  cases  calls  for  special  plans  from  an  architect  rather 
than  a  ready  made  plan. 

A  southerly  exposure  is  also  best  for  the  treatment  of  the 
grounds  or  the  building  of  a  flower  garden.  But  few  plants 
can  grow  in  the  shade.  Sec  Plate  XX  and  Plans  I,  V,  and  VII I . 

Are  the  views,  local  or  distant,  satisfactory?  The  best  views 
should  be  obtained  if  possible  from  the  living  rooms  of  the 
house.  The  local  views  of  the  prospective  site  may  be  charm- 
ing, but  the  views  of  the  distance  may  be  of  such  a  character 
as  poor  factories,  stone  quarries,  barren  cemeteries,  stagnant 
pools,  barns,  etc.,  that  they  cannot  be  obliterated  either  by 
planting  or  by  structural  means. 

In  choosing  the  site  some  cheap  land  may  be  offered  because 
the  irregularities  of  the  surface,  the  inacre^ihility  from  t In- 
struct, or  the  need  for  filling  cause  added  expense.  These  lots 


PLAN  I.     Preliminary  plan  for  treatment  of  level  open  lot. 
(Area  about  one  acre.) 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  15 

appear  at  first  thought  to  be  aosoiutely  worthless  because 
there  is  apparently  no  development  possible  upon  the  first; 
investigation.  Yet  for  the  exception  of  the  increased  cost  of 
development  the  lot  is  an  acceptable  one.  These  waste  lots 
often  give  an  opportunity  for  originality  of  treatment  of  homes 
that  are  unique. 


1 6  How  to  Lay  Out 


CHAPTER  in. 

True  art  is  expressive  before  it  is  beautifull 
at  it-  height  it  i-  -till  tin-  adornim-nt  ut  a 
service.  —  CHARLES  ELIOT. 

IN  the  choice  of  a  home  site  the  practical  uses  must 
not  be  overlooked.  There  must  be  reason  and  con- 
venience in  arrangement  before  the  beautifying 
features  are  introduced.  Notwithstanding  the  im- 
pression that  art  is  not  practical  it  is  worthy  of  note,  as  keen 
observers  will  find,  that  in  the  works  of  the  masters  of  the  land- 
scape art  there  is  a  simplicity  that  is  charming,  a  convenience 
that  is  reasonable  and  direct.  The  practical  utilities  are  made 
the  means  of  expressing  the  beauties  of  art  whether  in  beauty 
of  line  and  direction,  contour  or  shapeliness,  or  the  disposition 
of  the  embellishments  of  trees  and  shrubs. 

There  is  a  prevalent  idea  that  there  must  be  a  front  yard 
and  a  back  yard  to  every  estate.  The  front  is  to  be  neat  and 
well  kept,  while  the  back  yard  is  neglected  and  considered 
waste  space.  See  Plates  VI  and  VII. 

This  notion  is  fast  passing  away  and  the  desire  for  privacy 
has  led  to  the  development  of  the  lawn  or  garden  front.  In- 
stead of  the  refuse  and  offal  boxes  liein^  scattered  about  the 
premises  they  are  carefully  placed  in  an  inclosure  near  the 
kitchen  entrance.  Sec  Plates  XXIII  and  XXIV. 

The  practical  adaptability  of  the  house  to  the  site  is  worthy 
of  serious  thought.     Of  the  many  tyjx-s  the  level  open  lot  i-  the 
ea>ir<t  and  cheapest  to  develop  and  almost  any  type  of  house 
is  adaptable,  as  the  whole  surroundings  are  to  be  made      - 
Plans  I  and  V. 

The  expense  for  grading  will  be  light  about  the  house,  which 
is  often  an  important  item.  The  greatest  disadvantage  of  an 
open  lot  is  the  necessity  of  waiting  years  for  newly  planted 


PLATE  VI.     Treatment  of  the  "  Back  Yard  "  into  a  simple  lawn  and  garden 
surrounded  by  flowering  shrubs  and  herbaceous  perennials. 


PLATE  VII. 


The  rear  of  the  house  designed  as  a  terrace  garden  with  a 
sundial  for  central  feature. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  19 

trees  and  shrubs  to  mature.  If  there  are  good  trees  existing 
on  the  land  every  effort  should  be  made  to  save  them.  Often 
the  only  characteristic  feature  is  one  fine  tree  existing  where 
the  house  usually  would  be  set.  The  style  and  shape  of  the 
house  should  be  studied  that  the  tree  may  be  saved  and  give 
emphasis  to  the  home.  Difficult  conditions  in  the  hand  of  the 
master  will  result  in  convenience  and  art  combined.  Too  many 
house  plans  are  made  on  paper  without  reference  to  the  natural 
conditions  of  the  ground,  or  the  future  development.  See 
Plates  II  and  XV. 

Side  hill  lots  are  the  most  difficult  to  treat  successfully. 
Ingenuity  and  often  large  expense  is  necessary  to  secure  a. 
convenient  and  artistic  arrangement.  For  such  lots  the  long 
narrow  house  is  the  best.  This  shape  of  house  will  avoid  exces- 
sively high  rear  basement  walls.  See  Plate  XXI. 

A  free  hand  may  be  had  in  open  hill  side  lots,  but  in  wooded 
ones  the  problem  is  more  difficult.  It  is  usually  desirable  to- 
save  as  many  of  the  valuable  existing  trees  as  possible. 
Retaining  walls  may  be  needed  to  support  the  walks  or  drive- 
ways and  to  avoid  filling  against  an  especially  fine  tree. 

In  side  hill  lots  there  is  the  one  with  the  land  sloping  upward 
from  the  street  level  and  the  land  sloping  downward. 

On  the  land  above,  the  immediate  street  front  between  the 
house  and  the  street  may  be  either  sloped  with  graceful  banks, 
terraced  in  earth  and  grassed,  or  walled.  See  Plate  XXVI. 

The  land  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  house,  or  rear,  must  be 
shaped  so  the  surface  drainage  from  the  land  above  will  be 
carried  away  from  the  house.  If  the  land  is  not  too  steep  the 
earth  may  be  excavated  and  shaped  so  the  water  will  collect 
in  a  hollow  and  run  away  at  the  sides  of  the  house.  If  that  is 
not  possible  a  wall  can  be  built  with  a  catch  basin  in  the  lowest 
point  connected  with  drains  to  remove  the  surface  water.  The 
house  may  be  designed  to  fit  the  slope,  stepping,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  remove  the  buried  effect  so  often  seen  in  side 
hill  work. 


2O  How  to  Lay  Out 

On  the  land  below  tin-  street  tin-  house  is  usually  placed  high 
enough  so  the  earth  may  be  filled  against  the  cellar  wall  and 
get  a  slight  drainage  for  the  surface  water  away  from  the  build- 
ing to  the  street.  This  leaves  the  opposite  front  or  rear  well 
out  of  ground,  and  often  gives  the  house  an  appearance  as  if 
sliding  off  the  hill.  To  obviate  this  effect  a  stone  wall  or  earth 
terrace  may  be  built  broad  enough  to  form  a  good  foundation 
for  the  house  to  rest  upon.  If  there  is  material  enough  avail- 
able, the  base  may  be  broadened  out  and  a  natural  treatment 
secured.  This  base  gives  opportunities  for  a  terrace  formal 
garden  which  may  be  viewed  from  the  rooms  of  the  house. 
From  this  level  place,  steps  can  lead  down  to  the  orchard  or 
vegetable  garden.  See  Plates  XIX  and  XXI,  and  Plans  I,  VII, 
VIII,  XII,  and  XV. 

In  exceedingly  steep  land  it  may  be  necessary  to  locate  the 
house  below  the  street  grade.  There  should  be  ample  space 
between  the  side  line  of  the  street  and  the  house  front  to  allow 
for  shaping  of  the  land  so  the  surface  water  will  be  forced  to  run 
away  from  the  house  on  either  side,  or  the  street  may  l>e  held 
by  a  retaining  wall  and  steps  lead  down  to  the  house.  In  this 
latter  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  the  catch  basin  an<l  drain. 

The  down  hill  buried  effect  may  be  greatly  relieved  by  a 
proper  selection  of  plants. 


PLATE  VIII.     Walled  flower  garden,  street  side,  wisteria  in  full  bloom. 


PLATE  IX.     Walled  flower  garden,  inside  looking  towards  gate,  box  bordered 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  23 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Give  a  man  the  secure  possession  of  a  bleak 
rock,  and  lie  will  turn  it  into  a  garden;  give 
him  a  nine  years'  lease  of  a  garden  and  he  will 
convert  it  into  a  desert.  —  ARTHUR  YOUNG. 

JITH  the  purchase  of  the  home  site  is  deeded  the 
satisfaction  and  responsibilities  of  ownership.  Im- 
mediately the  flights  of  imagination  carry  the  home 
builder  into  dreams  of  possessing  so  many  different 
desirable  features  that  his  mind  becomes  an  enigma.  The 
puzzle  grows  harder  and  there  is  less  chance  of  a  good  solution 
as  he  walks  about  the  plot.  In  imagination  the  house  is  to  be 
here,  and  the  drive  there,  with  the  flower  garden  at  the  side. 
Everything  appears  easy  at  first,  then  comes  a  consciousness 
that  there  must  be  a  way  to  solve  the  mystery  in  a  business- 
like straightforward  manner. 

The  first  step  towards  a  solution  is  to  make  a  survey  plot  or  a 
topographical  map  of  the  ground  to  a  convenient  scale.  Mod- 
erate sized  lots  can  be  measured  by  the  ordinary  method  of  a 
tape  measure  and  2  foot  rule.  The  measurements  taken  can 
be  plotted  on  a  piece  of  drawing  paper  or,  if  that  is  not  avail- 
able, a  common  ordinary  sheet  of  heavy  brown  wrapping  paper. 
Make  the  drawing  on  a  scale  of  ^  inch  to  the  foot,  showing 
the  position  of  the  boundaries  of  the  property,  the  location 
of  any  natural  features  such  as  trees,  boulders,  and  shrubs 
which  may  be  used  in  developing  the  grounds.  Then  if  the 
ground  slopes  the  use  of  a  carpenter's  level  and  a  pole  10  feet 
in  length  will  give  the  difference  in  the  height  of  the  ground 
approximately.  To  get  the  elevation  set  the  carpenter's  level 
firmly  in  a  permanent  place,  make  level  and  sight  along  the 
top  of  the  level  to  the  10  foot  pole  held  in  the  hands  of  an 
assistant,  then  by  measurement  the  difference  between  the 


24  How  to  Lay  Out 

point  where  the  line  of  sight  strikes  the  pole  and  the  ground 
will  be  the  elevation  to  be  placed  upon  the  plan.  For  conven- 
ience it  is  a  good  plan  to  assume  the  top  of  the  level  at  100,  and 
every  measurement  down  as  the  land  varies  in  height  will  he 
helow  100,  as  96  feet  6  inches  or  91  feet  7  inches.  These  mea— 
ureinents  must  then  be  placed  upon  the  plan  in  a  position  to 
agree  with  the  point  in  which  they  were  taken  upon  the  ground. 
The  land  can  be  divided  into  squares  of  10  feet  or  20  feet  for 
convenience  of  locating  the  measurements.  See  Plan  VII. 

Locate  also  the  street,  curb,  grass  strip,  and  sidewalk  and 
the  proper  heights  on  the  property  line  to  which  it  will  he 
necessary  to  grade.  If  there  are  poles,  trees,  hydrant-,  m- 
sewer  manholes  between  the  street  and  sidewalk  they  should 
also  be  located  that  they  may  be  taken  into  consideration  in 
designing  the  approaches  to  the  house.  If  the  site  is  too  diffi- 
cult for  this  simple  home-made  method  a  surveyor  can  In- 
secured  to  get  the  information.  The  one  foot  contours  of  ele- 
vation with  all  the  natural  and  artificial  features  should  In- 
shown  upon  the  plan.  See  Plans  II,  X,  XIII,  and  XIV. 

Surveyors  usually  make  the  plans  on  the  10  foot,  20  foot,  or 
40  foot  scale  according  to  the  size  or  detail  of  the  lot  return -d. 
On  all  plans  be  sure  and  place  a  north  point.  The  north  point 
may  be  obtained  by  taking  the  direction  of  the  shadow  ra-t 
by  a  pole  at  12  o'clock  at  noon  from  some  known  point  on  tin- 
ground  and  drawing  the  lino  upon  tho  plan.  This  is  especially 
useful  in  the  study  of  the  house  and  the  grounds.  The  plan 
made  should  represent  the  lot. 

The  next  step  is  to  make  a  rough  preliminary  outline  of  the 
house  showing  the  location  of  tho  rooms  desired  in  their  rela- 
tion one  to  the  other. 

With  tho  preliminary  outline  of  the  house  and  the  survey 
plot  the  process  of  development  can  l>ogin.  Place  the  outline 
of  the  house  on  the  survey  in  the  position  thought  of  on  the 
ground,  whether  25  feet  or  more  from  the  street  line  and  t he- 
supposed  position  from  the  side  line.  Then  study  the  loca 


9  s 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  29 

tion  of  walks,  drives,  gardens,  lawns,  and  tennis  courts  in  their 
relation  to  the  house  and  to  each  other.  See  Plans  III,  IX,. 
and  XV. 

The  height  of  the  first  floor  above  the  street  should  be  deter- 
mined, allowing  for  the  height  of  the  under  pinning  of  the  house 
and  the  necessary  slopes  to  the  street.  At  this  point  if  there 
is  much  difference  in  elevation  a  cross  section  should  be  made 
to  assist  in  determining  the  height.  See  Plan  XI. 

Before  going  too  far,  examine  the  practical  points  such  as 
the  coal  delivery,  the  delivery  of  supplies  to  the  house,  the 
relation  of  the  living  room  windows  to  the  sun  and  to  the  lawn 
or  garden.  There  may  also  appear  difficulties  in  grade  for 
the  walks  or  drives  which  will  need  adjustment.  See  Plate  XX. 

That  which  is  usually  carried  in  the  mind's  eye  on  the  ground 
will  appear  out  of  place  and  awkward  when  drawn  on  paper 
and  studied.  Drives  that  would  seem  easy  enough  in  grade,  and 
graceful  in  alignment,  will  be  found  to  be  excessively  steep 
and  crooked  when  drawn  and  figured.  The  supposed  position 
for  a  lawn  or  flower  garden  will  be  found  to  be  impossible.  The 
bulkhead  or  coalhole  may  need  to  be  moved  or  a  flight  of  steps 
or  a  door  introduced  into  the  design  of  the  house  in  order  that 
access  to  the  lawn  or  garden  may  be  made  direct.  After- 
thoughts in  building  are  always  expensive,  and  there  are  many 
examples  of  what  "not  to  do"  in  the  houses  and  grounds  that 
have  been  carelessly  constructed.  See  Plans  VII  and  VIII. 

The  outlines  of  the  beds  of  shrubs  and  position  of  the  trees 
are  then  added  to  the  preliminary  sketch,  but  not  until  all  the 
practical  points  have  been  determined.  There  must  be  a  use 
for  every  portion  of  the  grounds  the  same  as  there  is  for  the 
house,  whether  for  service,  pleasure,  or  adornment.  If  the 
problem  is  too  difficult  an  experienced  landscape  architect 
will  be  of  assistance  in  sifting  the  chaff  from  the  wheat  in 
the  ideas  and  give  unity  and  originality  to  the  scheme. 

Having  determined  the  preliminary  sketch  the  next  step  is 
to  enter  more  into  detail  of  both  house  and  grounds. 


30  How  to  Lay  Out 

At  this  point,  if  the  home  builder  has  not  sufficient  confi- 
dence or  knowledge  (and  most  mm  are  wise  cnoiiirh  to  know 
their  deficiencies)  to  carry  out  in  detail  the  plans  for  the  house 
an  architect  should  be  consulted.  When  the  architect's  plans 
are  completed  and  the  specification-  are  drawn,  the  \\i>e  man 
plans  his  grounds  in  detail,  or  calls  in  a  landscape  architt -«-t  to 
make  a  plan  that  will  use  all  tin-  materials  excavated  econom- 
ically. The  plan  is  called  a  grading  or  working  plan.  It  will 
show  the  excavation  and  fills  to  be  made  to  get  the  de-in-d 
shape,  the  location  of  the  walks,  drive-,  etc.,  with  their  proper 
grades  and  indicate  the  depth  of  topsoil  to  be  used  for  a  lawn, 
garden,  or  for  planting  beds.  See  Plan  IV. 

A  specification  accompanying  the  plan  should  state  the 
character  of  work  and  kind  of  material  required. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  complete  all  the  work  planned  at  one 
time;  a  portion  can  be  carried  out  with  the  excavated  material- 
from  the  cellar.  The  remainder  of  the  work  can  he  completed 
from  time  to  time  as  funds  become  available. 

By  thus  working  to  a  definite  end,  the  completed  whole  will 
eventually  be  secured.  The  work  should  be  thoroughly  done 
for  good  results. 


PLATE  X.  Drive  located  on  simple  curves  at  side  of  property,  carriage  turn  close  to 
kitchen  door  and  laundry  yard.  Visitors  alight  halfway  up  the  drive.  Shrubbery 
border  screens  drive  from  house  lawn. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  35 


CHAPTER  V. 

What  is  worth  doing  at  all  is  worth  doing  well. 

GOOD  design  needs  good  construction.  The  execu- 
tion is  often  beset  by  many  difficulties  largely  caused 
by  lack  of  knowledge  or  the  failure  to  appreciate  the 
value  of  good  work.  Man  can  judge  of,  and  will  pay 
for,  a  good  piece  of  wood  or  stone  work,  but  in  the  grounds  there 
is  often  an  effort  to  save  expense  at  the  loss  of  good  results. 

By  all  means  the  use  of  poor  soil  or  rubbish  should  be  avoided 
in  the  filling,  as  it  will  show  later  when  an  attempt  is  made 
to  grow  grass  or  shrubs.  The  disposition  of  the  subsoil  and 
the  topsoil  must  be  carefully  watched.  Not  every  man  who 
can  handle  a  shovel  well  can  grade  well;  the  workmanship  of 
the  skilled  artisan  is'  displayed  even  in  this  menial  type  of 
work.  A  man  with  good  judgment  will  save  extra  expense 
by  scheming  the  work  to  avoid  much  double  handling  of  soil. 

•A  good  way  is  to  clear  the  topsoil  from  a  small  area  in  both 
the  portions  to  be  excavated  or  filled,  and  pile  the  soil  in  some 
convenient  yet  out  of  the  way  place.  Then  make  the  exca- 
vation or  the  fills,  and  when  more  area  is  needed  to  work  on, 
clear  away  some  more  topsoil  and  place  it  over  the  filled  subsoil 
in  its  permanent  position. 

In  grading  or  shaping  the  ground  every  effort  should  be 
made  to  have  the  slopes  graceful  and  smooth.  There  is  a  line 
of  beauty  known  as  the  ogee  curve,  which  can  be  used  in 
grading  with  as  good  results  as  by  artists  in  their  work.  See 
Plan  XI. 

In  making  the  side  slopes  to  a  drive  or  walk,  care  should  be 
taken  to  grade  them  to  graceful  lines  and  make  them  soften 
into  the  adjoining  grounds,  avoiding  any  sharp  or  abrupt 
angles.  If  anyone  observes  the  natural  slopes  which  occur  in 


36  How  to  Lay  Out 

fields  they  will  see  that  there  are  no  harsh  lines,  and  wherever 
man  has  made  excavations,  nature  is  trying  to  soften  the  sharp 
<Klges  and  remove  the  ugly  defects. 

The  location  of  a  drive  is  important  to  its  success.  It  should 
conform  to  the  topography  and  shape  of  the  land.  It  should 
be  planned  to  save  any  valuable  exist  in.-:  features  or  a  fine 
boulder,  a  good  tree,  a  ledge  or  a  group  of  desirable  shrubs. 
Drives  are  means  of  ingress  and  egress,  and  should  serve  th<-e 
purposes  quickly.  The  direction  should  be  maM'  very  simple: 
unnecessary  crooks  and  turns  are  only  awkward,  not  beauti- 
ful. After  once  entering  the  property  and  having  >een  tin- 
house,  it  is  a  poor  plan  to  make  the  drive  meander  about.  It 
should  be  made  as  direct  as  possible.  To  the  moderate  home. 
there  should  be  some  reason  for  building  the  drive  other  than 
for  the  delivery  of  coal.  The  added  expense  of  basketing 
the  coal  at  25  cents  per  ton  is  more  than  offset  by  the  en-t  (1f 
the  maintenance  of  the  drive.  See  Plates  X  and  XVIII. 

It  is  a  poor  plan  to  make  the  house  appear  like  an  oa-i-  in 
the  desert  by  the  encircling  of  the  drive.  The  drive  Mirl'ace  is 
not  very  handsome  in  itself  and  should  not  be  made  wider  or 
more  extensive  than  is  nere— ary.  l.awn-.  -hnibberie-,  ami 
trees  arc  more  to  be  desired  than  barren  drives.  Many  a  beau- 
tiful lawn  lias  been  separated  from  the  house  and  spoiled  for 
enjoyment  l>y  a  poorly  located  or  uimerr.—ary  drive.  If  then- 
are  no  existing  feature-  to  In-  .-aved  or  as  a  guidance  or  excuse 
for  a  curve  it  may  be  necessary  to  plant  trees  and  shrubbery 
to  give  reason  for  the  direction  planned.  Never  u-e  a  flower 
bed  or  small  architectural  object  or  an  urn:  they  are  too  trivial. 

The  width  of  the  drive  i-  determined  by  the  frequency  of 
use.  If  the  distance  i-  -hort  mid  there  is  but  little  dnvini: 
a  width  of  9  or  10  feet  i-  ample.  If  the  di-tance  i-  louder  or 
where  there  is  need  for  carriage-.  pa--inur  each  other,  the  drive 
>hould  l»e  made  11  or  Hi  feet  in  width.  On  no  account  should 
a  drive  be  made  1'J  feet  in  width,  a-  it  i-  too  wide  for  a  single 
drive  and  not  wide  enough  for  two  vehicles  to  pass  without 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  37 

damaging  the  turf  edge.  It  is  a  very  deceptive  width  to  per- 
sons driving  and  meeting  another  carriage  as  it  looks  wider 
than  it  really  is.  A  muddy  drive  is  a  poor  introduction  to  the 
home  grounds.  The  surface  drainage  from  the  land  adjoin- 
ing the  drive  and  the  drainage  of  the  drive  itself  may  need 
to  be  taken  care  of  by  means  of  subsoil  drains. 

If  the  subsoil  is  clay  or  very  wet,  underdrains  should  be 
used  on  the  sides  or  in  the  middle  of  the  drive.  This  is  done 
by  digging  a  narrow  trench  3  feet  or  4  feet  below  the  proposed 
finished  surface  and  laying  2  inch  or  3  inch  agricultural  tile  at 
the  bottom  of  the  trench  in  such  a  slope  that  the  water  will  run 
through  them.  The  joints  of  the  tile  should  be  covered  with  bur- 
lap or  tile  collars  used  in  addition  to  prevent  the  joints  becom- 
ing clogged.  The  water  passes  largely  from  the  land  into  the 
tile  through  the  joint.  In  filling  in  the  trench,  first  throw 
some  hay,  stone,  or  inverted  sod  over  the  tile,  then  spread  a 
layer  about  6  inches  in  depth  of  small  field  stone,  broken  stone, 
or  coarse  gravel  as  an  additional  means  of  drainage.  After 
this  is  done  the  soil  may  be  refilled  and  tamped  with  a  rammer. 

The  surface  water  can  be  taken  care  of  by  forming  a  groove 
or  turf  gutter  at  the  side  of  the  drive  or  by  building  a  narrow 
gutter  of  stone  or  brick. 

If  there  is  a  large  quantity  of  water  flowing  from  the  adjoin- 
ing surface  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  a  catch  basin.  A  very 
economical  way  to  build  one  is  to  use  three  lengths  of  vitrified 
sewer  pipe,  20  inches  in  diameter,  set  on  end.  On  top,  an  iron 
grating  is  set  to  fit  into  the  bell  of  the  pipe.  The  middle  length 
of  the  pipe  should  have  a  "T"  outlet  usually  about  6  inches 
in  diameter. 

From  this  the  drains  can  be  connected  and  laid  to  the  desired 
point  of  discharge.  Smaller  sized  catch  basins  can  be  built 
to  take  care  of  a  smaller  flow  of  surface  water. 

The  joints  of  the  pipe  should  be  all  sealed  with  cement  mor- 
tar, and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  set  the  bottom  upright  pipe  in 
cement.  This  then  forms  a  catch  basin  that  will  hold  the  debris 


38  How  to  Lay  Out 

running  into  the  basin.  This  basin  will  need  to  be 
out  occasionally.  This  is  done  by  removing  the  grating  and 
using  a  long  handled  shovel.  The  drain  pipes  should  be  laid 
on  an  inclination  sufficient  to  get  good  flow. 

In  excavating  for  the  drive  all  the  topsoil  and  poor  subsoil 
should  be  removed  to  a  depth  of  2  feet  if  necessary,  and  a  foun- 
dation replaced  of  good  clean  material,  gravel  or  refuse  stone. 
The  bottom  should  then  be  brought  to  a  rounding  surface, 
allowing  for  the  depth  of  the  finishing  material,  gravel,  ma- 
cadam, or  Telford. 

If  there  is  but  little  travel,  a  gravel  drive  will  be  satisfactory. 
It  can  be  built  by  using  two  layers  of  gravel  4  inches  in  thick- 
ness. The  bottom  layer  should  contain  the  larger  stone<  <»r 
coarser  part  of  the  gravel  and  rolled  to  a  fine  surface.  On  thi? 
layer  the  finishing  4  inch  layer  can  be  placed.  This  should 
be  good  binding  gravel  with  the  larger  stones  raked  out.  Then 
the  surface  should  be  rolled  smooth  and  to  a  rounding  shape 
or  crown  of  \  inch  to  the  foot  at  the  sides  and  round  in  the 
middle.  It  seldom  happens  that  gravel  can  bo  obtained  <>i  the 
required  quality  in  the  pit.  If  the  gravel  is  too  coarse  it  should 
be  screened  through  a  2$  inch  mesh  screen.  A  two  and  one 
half  ton  horse  ring  roller  is  the  best  to  use  for  rolling  the  dim- 
on  small  grounds. 

If  there  is  more  driving,  or  there  is  not  a  good  quality  or 
quantity  of  gravel  in  the  neighl>orhood,  a  macadam  drive 
should  Ix?  made.  This  can  be  built  by  using  4  inches  of  ( rii-h.  d 
stone  of  the  1J  inch  size,  laid  and  shajx'd  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  the  gravel  drive  and  rolled  to  a  firm  surface.  On  this 
rolled  surface  is  next  placed  a  1  inch  layer  of  smaller  cm-lied 
stone  and  screenings  mixed.  This  should  lx>  watered  and 
rolled  until  a  smooth  hard  surface  is  obtained.  The  v.-une 
crown  should  l>e  made  in  finishing  as  dcscril>ed  for  tin- 
drive. 

If  there  is  a  great  amount  of  use,  or  if  there  is  a  lame  quan- 
tity of  stone  on  the  grounds,  a  Telford  drive  can  be  built  en  a 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  43 

foundation  shaped  1  foot  below  the  proposed  finished  surface. 
The  bottom  layer  of  stone  is  composed  of  pieces  of  broken 
stone  averaging  8  inches  in  size,  set  upon  end.  The  spaces 
between  the  larger  stones  are  filled  and  wedged  with  smaller 
pinning  stones.  On  this  bottom  foundation  layer  a  3  inch 
layer  of  the  medium  size  1£  inch  or  2£  inch  crushed  stone 
should  be  placed  and  thoroughly  rolled  until  smooth.  After 
this  has  been  done  a  finishing  layer  1  inch  in  thickness 
of  small  crushed  stones  and  screenings  mixed  should  be  placed, 
rolled,  and  watered  until  a  smooth  hard  surface  is  obtained. 
If  necessary  a  little  clay  or  binding  gravel  may  be  used  for  a 
binder  in  the  finishing  courses. 

The  grades  of  the  drive  should  be  as  easy  as  possible;  an 
approach  or  main  entrance  drive  should  not  have  over  5 
feet  rise  in  the  100  feet,  a  service  drive  not  over  7  feet. 
In  extreme  cases  it  may  be  necessary  to  increase  these  figures 
to  10  feet  in  the  100. 

Walks  or  paths  are  designed  and  built  on  the  same  deter- 
mining principles.  There  should  be  some  reason  for  their 
being:  as,  to  go  to  an  arbor,  a  tennis  court,  the  doors  of  the 
house,  or  other  buildings.  Mere  meandering  walks  without 
any  occasion  for  their  use  are  not  objects  of  beauty.  They 
may  be  constructed  either  of  gravel  or  macadam,  and  the  widths 
vary  from  2  to  8  feet  according  to  the  purpose  to  be  served. 
The  grade  of  the  walk  should  be  as  easy  as  possible,  never  over 
12  feet  in  100.  A  crown  of  $  inch  to  the  foot  on  the  sides  and 
rounding  in  the  middle  is  ample  for  a  walk.  See  Plates  XXI 
and  XXII. 

In  steeper  slopes  where  it  is  desirable  to  carry  a  walk,  steps 
should  be  used  to  overcome  the  steep  grade.  These  can  be 
built  to  fit  the  ground  or  may  be  short  flights  with  a  short 
run  of  walk  between  each  flight.  The  steps  may  be  built  of 
wood,  stone,  or  brick.  See  Plate  XI. 

When  there  is  but  little  use,  yet  a  means  or  communication 
is  desired,  stepping  stones  should  be  substituted  for  the  walk. 


44  How  to  Lay  Out 

This  will  remove  the  effect  of  the  walk  dividing  the  lawn  and 
reduce  the  maintenance  to  a  minimum.  Stepping  stones  are 
made  by  using  slabs  of  stone  or  flat  boulders  set  into  the  lawn 
flush  with  the  surrounding  surface.  A  good  distance  apart 
for  the  stones  for  convenient  walking  is  22  inches  on  centres. 
If  settlements  should  take  place  on  the  lawn  about  each  stone, 
it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  raise  or  lower  them  to  conform  to 
the  surface.  If  they  are  kept  at  the  proper  elevation  a  lawn 
mower  will  pass  over  and  cut  the  grass  without  the  need  of 
using  shears  along  the  edges  as  is  often  used  in  other  kinds  of 
walks.  See  Plates  III  and  XIII. 

A  clean  yet  more  expensive  method  is  to  build  the  walk  of 
brick.  A  good  foundation  should  be  made  to  avoid  settle- 
ments. If  the  work  is  properly  done  there  will  be  no  repairs. 
The  bricks  can  be  laid  herringbone  fashion,  lengthwise,  cross- 
wise of  the  walk,  or  in  various  patterns.  A  little  curb  edge 
may  be  formed  along  the  side  of  the  walk  by  elevating  a  brick 
on  its  side  about  an  inch  above  the  general  surface  and  the 
earth  filled  (lush  with  the  top.  The  color  of  the  brick  should 
harmonize  with  the  building  and  its  surroundings.  Yellow 
brick  should  Ix;  avoided,  red  is  the  most  pleasing  color  to  use. 
See  Plate  XIX. 

The  use  of  artificial  stone,  often  called  granolithic,  makes  a 
good  but  more  expensive  walk.  The  foundation  for  this  kind 
of  walk  must  be  thoroughly  made  and  good  under  drainage 
provided  to  avoid  disturbance  by  the  action  of  frost  It  may 
be  necessary  to  remove  poor  or  clayey  soil  to  a  di-pth  of  :>  feet 
and  the  space  filled  with  dry  gravel,  broken  -tone,  or  boiler 
cinders.  See  Plate  XV. 

The  walk  Is  then  divided  into  sections  varying  from 
feet  square  by  the  use  of  strips  of  wood  nailed  to  -tak<->  driven 
into  the  ground.  If  wttlnnent  takes  place,  each  block  will  >.-pa- 
ratc  as  a  single  stone  without  cracking.  The  >t«»ne<  can  l>e  laid 
alternately  or  continuously  by  Handing  the  joint,  or  with  a  -nip 
of  paper  placed  between  before  laying  the  m\t  block  adjoin- 


PLATE  XIII. 


Stepping  stones  to  overcome  grade  to  street  end  of  terrace 
garden. 


PLATE  XIV.     Well    built  wall,  note  raked  out    joints  and    slight    batter. 
Turnstile  instead  of  gate. 


PLATE  XV.     Kitchen  entrance  screened  in  combination  with  laundry  yard. 


PLATE  XVI.     A  laundry  yard' fence  designed  in  harmony  with  the  house. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  49 

ing.  The  bottom  layer  of  the  walk  is  usually  laid  3  inches  in 
thickness,  composed  of  one  part  best  American  Portland 
cement,  two  parts  clean,  sharp  sand,  and  four  or  five  parts 
broken  stone.  After  the  bottom  layer  is  thoroughly  rammed, 
a  finishing  layer  one  inch  in  thickness  is  laid,  composed  of  one 
part  cement  and  one  and  one  half  parts  clean,  sharp  sand  or 
one  part  cement  and  two  parts  stone  dust. 

The  surface  is  then  finished  smooth  with  proper  tools  and 
protected  from  the  weather  by  coverings  until  the  surface  is 
firm  and  hard. 

The  rate  of  grade  in  a  granolithic  walk  should  not  be  over 
5  feet  in  100  feet,  never  over  7;  a  safe  rule  is  to  use  it  only 
on  walks  that  bluestone  flag  stones  would  be  used.  The 
surface  is  so  smooth  that  it  is  dangerously  slippery  when  too 
steep.  The  color  of  the  walk  can  be  varied  to  red  or  slate  by 
the  use  of  coloring  pigment.  Slate  blue  color  may  be  obtained 
by  the  use  of  lamp  black;  slate  color  is  obtained  by  the  use  of 
one  pound  of  lamp  black  to  a  barrel  of  cement.  Red  color  is 
obtained  either  by  the  use  of  red  sand  or  ground  red  sandstone 
or  Venetian  red  or  both  mixed.  Reds  are  liable  to  fade.  The 
limit  of  color  is  five  pounds  to  the  barrel  of  cement. 


50  How  to  Lay  Out 


CHAPTER  VI. 

And  some  praise  must  IN-  allowed  by  the  most 
scrupulous  observrr  to  him  who  does  best 
what  multitudes  are  contending  to  do  well.  — 

S.    JnHNSMX. 

ANCY  free  the  dreamer  thinks  of  arbors,  -eats  and 
cool  retreats,  yet  to  build  and  make  real  in  line<  of 
beauty  Is  no  dream.  An  arbor  in  the  ground-  may 
form  a  vista  point  in  the  landscape,  lie  the  e\<-u-e 
for  ending  a  walk  or  the  means  of  commanding  a  line  view  that 
otherwise  would  not  be  seen  from  the  house.  If  near  the  hou-e, 
it  should  be  designed  to  l>e  in  keeping  with  the  architecture  of 
the  building.  If  at  some  distance  away  from  the  hou-e  -pnire 
poles,  cedar  slabs,  or  roots  make  good  work.  It  is  usually 
better  to  have  a  floor  rai-ed  .-it  least  one  step  from  the  Around. 
It  is  a  good  plan  l>efore  building  to  ob-erve  structures  that. 
have  lx*en  built  by  others  ami  note  if  they  are  inharmonious 
with  the  house  and  grounds.  Then  avoid  these  in  building  on 
the  home  grounds.  The  more  dignified  name  for  an  arbor  is  a 
pergola  (the  name  is  wrongly  u-ed»,  useful  to  inclo-e  a  l;i\vn. 
a  flower  garden,  or  help  hide  some  objectionable  feature  in 
the  neighborhood.  It  should  look  when  built  a-  if  it  belonged 
to  the  place  and  not  appear  as  if  dropped  by  a  passing  wind 
without  relation  to  the  house  or  lawn.  See  Plans  V,  and  VIII 
and  Plate  XIX. 

(ira|N>  or  flowering  vines  can  be  grown  over  it  making  on  hot 
summer  days  a  pleasant  retreat  from  the  heat  of  the  h<>u-e. 
See  Plates  VIII,  IX  and  XXI. 

A  seat  to  end  a  walk  or  command  a  view  is  better  built  on 
plain  and  unobtrusive  lines.  If  bui't  more  on  the  .-tyle  of  an 
old  fash  oned  Ix-nch  or  form,  it  wil  be  less  conspicuous  than 
the  many  commercial  designs  offered  for  sale. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  51 

The  arbor  or  pergola  may  be  planned  so  as  to  form  one  side 
of  the  laundry  or  clothes  drying  yard,  helping  to  make  a  very 
desirable  feature.  See  Plates  XV  and  XVI. 

If  a  laundry  yard  fence  is  to  be  built  it  should  be  about 
7  feet  high,  and  designed  architecturally  correct.  The  posts 
of  such  a  fence  may  be  either  of  red  cedar,  white  cedar,  chest- 
nut, or  locust,  so  that  the  chance  of  decay  will  be  largely  over- 
come. Make  the  mesh  of  the  lattice  close  enough  to  hide  the 
clothes  from  general  view,  and  yet  open  enough  to  allow  a 
circulation  of  air  to  dry  the  clothes.  The  use  of  a  laundry 
yard  should  be  encouraged  as  it  is  a  great  aid  in  keeping  the 
grounds  neat  and  helps  to  form  an  artistic  setting  when  vines 
and  shrubbery  are  well  placed.  A  very  practical  advantage 
from  the  housekeeper's  standpoint  is,  that  the  clothes  are 
shielded  from  the  gaze  of  outsiders,  and  the  despoiling  by  dogs 
or  other  animals.  The  clothes  may  also  be  laid  on  the  grass 
to  bleach  in  perfect  safety.  Spruce  poles  set  closely  together 
with  the  bark  left  on  make  a  good  fence.  This  kind  of  fence 
will  last  for  years  and  will  avoid  the  necessity  of  painting. 

Fences  may  be  needed  along  the  street  front  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  grounds.  A  height  of  3  feet  to  3  feet  6  inches 
will  serve  all  the  purposes  required.  It  is  better  to  substitute  a 
hedge  or  border  of  shrubs  planted  about  a  concealed  wire  fence, 
thus  wild  animals  are  excluded  and  the  grounds  made  more 
attractive.  A  woven  wire  mesh  fence  on  the  side  lines  covered 
with  vines  makes  it  an  economical  and  good  way  to  protect 
the  grounds  from  encroaching  neighbors.  See  Plates  XXIII 
and  XXIV. 

For  more  permanent  effects  build  a  wall.  The  foundation 
of  the  wall  should  be  laid  deep  enough  to  be  below  the  work- 
ing of  frost  and  wide  enough  at  the  base  to  carry  the  wall  built 
above.  A  good  safe  rule  to  use  in  building  bank  walls  is  to 
make  the  base  one  half  the  height  in  thickness.  See  Plates 
XVIII  and  XXVI. 

Terrace  and  bank  walls  look  better  when  built  with  a  batter 


52  How  to  Lay  Out 

or  slope  on  the  outer  face.  Thus  the  tipping  over  effect  often 
seen  in  plumb  walls  will  be  obviated.  See  Plate  XIV. 

The  treatment  of  the  coping  of  the  wall  affords  an  oppor- 
tunity to  give  a  finishing  touch.  The  finish  of  the  face  of  the 
wall  and  the  manner  and  method  of  laying  the  stone,  calls  for 
taste  and  skill.  Open  joints,  with  the  mortar  raked  well  back 
from  the  face  of  the  wall,  form  a  more  pleasing  and  substantial 
treatment  than  if  the  mortar  is  >ineaiv<l  on  the  surface.  Let 
the  individual  stones  stand  out.  See  Plate  XIV. 

Pleasing  effects  are  made  by  using  boulders  and  weather 
beaten  stone  laid  at  random  to  hold  a  very  strep  bank  about 
a  summer  house  or  other  artificial  object;  the  spaces  Ix-ing  filled 
with  good  soil,  rock  loving  plants  may  be  induced  to  grow.  On 
no  account  should  a  rockery  be  built  in  the  centre  of  a  lawn,  it 
being  classed  as  one  of  the  incongruous  objects  which  help  to 
mar  the  beauty  of  the  grounds,  and  is  in  the  same  category  as 
a  red  painted  pot  filled  with  flowers  hanging  on  a  three  forked 
stick,  or  a  piece  of  sewer  pipe  for  an  ornament,  or  an  old  boat 
filled  with  earth  in  which  are  geraniums  and  nasturtiums. 

Often  a  brook  passing  through  the  home  lot  could  l>e  made 
use  of  in  many  ways.  If  from  a  higher  region  it  might  be 
conveyed  to  a  fountain  basin  in  the  centre  of  a  flower  pardm. 
or  a  natural  treatment  can  be  made  in  the  form  of  cast -a<l<-.  ami 
interesting  water  plants  can  be  induced  to  grow  along  the  hanks. 
In  planning  or  building  the  water  basins,  whether  of  >ton« . 
cement,  concrete,  or  brick,  the  practical  points  must  not  be 
overlooked,  such  as  the  drainage  and  the  liability  of  damage 
by  frost. 


PLATE  XVII.     Wall  built  of  boulders  and  ledge  stone  covered  with  vines. 
Top  of  stones  are  about  three  feet  above  sidewalk. 


PLATE  XVIII.     Service  entrance  to  estate.     Front  entrance  court  is  about 
fifteen  feet  away  to  the  left,  screened  by  well  studied  plantation. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  55 


CHAPTER  VII. 

One  cultivates  a  lawn  even  with  great  satis- 
faction; for  there  is  nothing  more  beautiful 
than  grass  or  turf  in  our  latitude.  The  tropics 
may  have  their  delight  but  they  have  not 
turf;  and  the  world  without  turf  is  a  dreary 
desert.  —  CHARLES  DUDLEY  WARNER. 

|HE  joy  and  delight  of  every  home  builder  is  a  good 
iwn.  Without  it  all  efforts  at  adornment  seem 
futile.  The  green  carpet  is  the  canvas  upon  which 
the  house,  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers  depend  for  set- 
ting. How  to  obtain  a  good  lawn  and  how  to  keep  it  good,  re- 
quires more  thought  than  any  other  portion  of  the  grounds.  A 
weedy  patch,  a  brown  or  sunburned  spot  is  so  conspicuous  as  to 
need  immediate  treatment  and  is  often  hard  to  cure.  How  often 
one  sees  a  lawn  dug  over  and  reseeded  with  but  the  same  poor 
result!  The  real  secret  is  to  have  the  conditions  right,  and 
the  workmanship  and  materials  of  the  very  best.  Added  to 
these  must  be  skill  and  good  judgment  to  secure  the  results. 

The  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  subsoil  should  be  examined, 
and  if  there  is  a  deficiency  of  the  requisites  for  a  lawn,  the  lack 
should  be  supplied.  Cold,  soggy,  wet  land  must  be  improved 
by  subdraining,  and  ledgy  land  by  blasting  away  the  ledge  to  at 
least  3  feet  below  the  proposed  new  surface,  or  the  ledge  may  be 
filled  over  to  get  the  proper  depth  of  soil.  A  moist  soil  is  the 
best  for  a  lawn  with  a  slight  mixture  of  clay  or  a  clay  subsoil 
which  retains  a  certain  amount  of  moisture  yet  is  not  wet. 
Clay  may  be  added  to  very  sandy  soil,  or  sand  to  very  heavy, 
stiff,  clayey  soil  to  get  the  proper  conditions.  If  the  soil  is 
sour,  air  slaked  lime  can  be  used  to  correct  the  acidity.  It 
is  often  thought  that  the  use  of  manure  or  fertilizer  is  a  need- 
less expense  because  it  is  buried  in  the  ground  and  nothing  can 


56  How  to  Lay  Out 

be  seen  of  the  money  expended,  yet  there  is  no  surer  way  of 
securing  lasting  results  than  by  the  use  of  plenty  of  good  man- 
ure and  fertilizer. 

Manure  should  be  very  well  rotted,  mixed  stable  manure 
or  cow^nanure  is  the  best.  Manure  which  contains  shaving 
or  wood  chips  is  a  very  poor  kind  for  making  a  lawn.  As  the 
wood  decays  on  the  ground  a  fungus  is  formed  which  causes 
bare  spots.  Commercial  fertilizers  may  be  used  to  advantage 
in  many  instances.  They  act,  however,  more  as  a  stimulant 
to  the  soil  than  as  a  permanent  treatment.  Manure  puts 
humus  into  the  soil  which  feeds  the  plants  after  the  com  inn  vial 
fertilizer  has  lost  its  power. 

The  practice  of  placing  manure  on  the  grass  about  the  home 
in  the  fall  is  rather  disgusting  in  that  it  makes  a  barnyard 
of  the  premises  all  winter.  The  use  of  sheep  manure  <>r  wood 
ashes  in  the  spring  during  the  April  rains  is  equally  a^  beneficial. 
If  it  is  desired  to  use  manure,  two  or  three  weeks'  div.-- in«j  in 
the  spring  during  the  April  showers  is  more  effective  than 
manure  placed  in  the  fall  upon  the  frozen  ground.  In  tin- 
latter  method  all  the  fertilizing  juice-  \\a-h  away  into  the 
street  or  sidewalk. 

A  common  practice  in  building  is  to  scatter  the  excavated 
cellar  material  about  the  house  over  the  existing  topsoil,  spread 
on  top  a  few  inches  of  good  soil,  and  expect  to  get  a  good  lawn. 
As  a  good  lawn  is  dependent  on  the  quality  and  quantity  of 
the  topsoil,  it  is  desirable  to  remove  and  save  all  «ji>t»d  soil 
about  the  building.  Then  after  the  subgrading  has  been  done 
respread  the  topsoil  at  least  one  foot  in  depth.  The  top-nii 
should  be  kept  clean  and  free  from  stones,  roots,  and  weeds. 

The  grading  or  the  shaping  of  the  ground  is  p-poii-iMe  jh 
many  ways  for  the  appearance  of  a  lawn.  A  slightly  convex 
surface  gives  the  appearance  of  extent,  and  one  .Alight ly  con- 
cave of  narrowness. 

Any  ugly  banks  or  ridges  should  l>e  removed,  or  >haped  to 
secure  graceful  smooth  lines.  When  the  prop. -r  depth  of  top- 


PLATE  XIX.     Terrace  flower  garden.     Pergola  at  end.     Laundry  yard  seen 
through  opening  at  left. 


PLATE  XX.     Flower  garden,  box  bordered,  adjoining  a  small  conservatory. 

p.  57 


PLATE  XXI.     Terrace  flower  garden.     House  before  had  appearance  as  if  it 
were  sliding  off  hill.    Brick  walk  with  birch  edge. 


PLATE  XXII.     Flower  bordered  walk 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  61 

soil  and  shape  have  been  secured  the  manure  should  be  evenly 
spread  and  spaded  in  8  or  10  inches  deep.  Grasses  have  long 
roots  and  will  seek  the  manure  which  might  seem  to  be  buried 
so  deeply. 

The  manure  should  be  used  at  the  rate  of  15  to  20  cords  to 
the  acre,  depending  on  the  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  kind  of 
manure.  After  the  manure  has  been  dug  in,  a  good  commercial 
lawn  fertilizer,  at  the  rate  of  500  or  600  pounds  to  the  acre, 
should  be  used  to  act  as  a  stimulant  to  the  grass  seed.  Then 
the  ground  must  be  raked,  all  the  hollows  filled,  humps  smoothed 
and  rolled  to  an  even  surface.  When  the  ground  is  smooth, 
sow  the  seed  at  the  rate  of  about  70  pounds  to  the  acre,  then 
give  a  final  raking  or  rolling.  Nothing  but  the  very  best  lawn 
grass  seed  should  be  sowed.  The  kind  known  to  the  trade  as 
recleaned,  fancy  cleaned  is  the  best.  Buy  seed  only  of  honest, 
reliable  dealers.  A  good  mixture  for  general  purposes  is  to  take 
two  parts  Kentucky  blue  grass,  two  parts  of  Rhode  Island  Bent, 
two  parts  Red  Top,  and  one  part  white  clover.  Other  mix- 
tures of  different  proportions  and  kinds  of  seed  can  be  made 
to  suit  special  conditions. 

Weeds  will  be  a  source  of  annoyance  coming  either  from 
the  manure,  poor  seed,  or  the  soil  itself.  A  heavy  sowing 
of  seed  to  form  a  thick  mat  will  help  to  kill  out  the  weeds. 
When  weeds  appear  they  should  be  dug  out  of  the  lawn.  The 
best  time  to  seed  is  just  before  a  shower.  Heavy  rains  are 
liable  to  wash  the  seed  away  and  make  gullies  in  the  lawn. 
These  scars  should  be  repaired  and  reseeded  immediately. 
Any  bare  spots  where  the  seed  fails  to  come  up  should  be  re- 
seeded  after  waiting  a  reasonable  time,  say,  about  two  weeks 
after  seeding.  Patience  and  perserverance  is  the  price  of  a 
good  lawn. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  best  season  to  seed 
a  lawn,  some  claiming  that  the  spring  is  the  better,  others  the 
fall.  If  the  seed  is  sown  early  in  the  spring  good  results  will 
be  secured,  but  if  sown  late  the  summer  droughts  will  burn 


62  How  to  Lay  Out 

the  young  grass  before  it  becomes  established.  Good  surce-s 
is  obtained  by  sowing  in  the  fall.  The  last  two  week.-  in  August 
or  the  first  two  weeks  in  September  is  the  be.-t  time.  In  the 
fall  weed  seeds  are  not  so  vigorous,  the  rains  and  heavy  dews 
are  almo-t  certain,  and  there  is  time  enough  for  the  grass  to 

get    established    before    winter. 

Good  judgment  should  be  -hown  in  caring  for  a  lawn.  The 
fir-t  mowing  of  a  newly  seeded  lawn  should  be  done  with  a 
scythe.  Avoid  too  do-e  dipping  of  the  lawn  during  droughts. 
Do  not  let  the  grass  grow  too  tall  as  it  shades  the  root*  raining 
the  grass  to  have  a  burnt  appearance. 

Good  turf  is  the  one  essential  for  a  tenni-  lawn.  A  quirk 
method  of  securing  the  finished  surface  is  to  sod  the  area. 
Sprinkle  some  screened  topx.il  and  commercial  lawn  fertilizer 
over  the  sod  and  sow  a  little  grass  seed,  water  and  mil.  A  .-pace 
of  about  50  feet  by  100  feet  is  usually  needed  and  allowed  for 
a  tennis  court. 

Tennis  has  developed  from  the  simple  game  played  on  the 
lawn  to  one  played  on  a  specially  prepared  dirt  or  gravel 
court.  The  desire  to  own  a  court  has  caused  all  idea-  of 
beauty  in  the  lawn  or  home  surrounding-  to  be  abandoned. 
The  unity  of  what  was  once  beautiful  home  surrounding-  has 
often  been  de-t roved.  I'nless  kept  in  con-tant  u-e  and  repair 
they  are  apt  to  become  barren  wa-te-  with  -tnm'jling  weeds. 
Sudi  -urface-  -hould  lx>  hidden  from  view  of  the  hmi-e  by 
a  fence  covered  with  vines  or  a  plantation  of  taeefl  and 
shrul>s. 

To  make  a  gravel  tenni<  court  a  spare  about  ."><)  feet  by 
100  feet  should  have  all  the  top-oil  and  poor  -ub-oil  removed. 
If  the  ground  is  very  wet  the  land  -hould  be  underdrained. 
Then  use  the  same  methods  for  building  the  gravel  court  a- 
is  adopted  for  the  building  of  gravel  or  macadam  drive-.  If 
the  court 'cannot  be  made  level.  slo|>e  either  way  about  i  inch 
to  the  foot  and  in  the  direction  of  the  irein-ral  -lope  of  the  land. 
The  back  net  can  be  made  a  permanent  fence  by  th«  u-e  of 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  63 

gas  pipe  rails  8  feet  high  and  electric  welded  mesh  wire  vine 
securely  fastened  to  the  rails  by  galvanized  or  copper  wire. 
The  mesh  of  the  wire  chosen  must  be  of  a  size  to  keep  the 
tennis  balls  from  being  driven  through  the  fence.  The  gas 
pipe  should  be  painted  dark  green. 


64  How  to  Lay  Out 


CHAPTKH    VIII. 

There  are  too  many  who  have  no  idea  of  im- 
provement, except  by  increasing  the  quantity, 
the  quality,  or  the  value  of  an  estate.  The 
beauty  of  the  scenery  seldom  enters  into  their 
thought;  and,  What  will  it  cost?  or,  What  will 
it  yield?  not.  How  will  it  look?  Mt-ins  thr  gen- 
eral object  of  inquiry  in  all  improvements.  — 
KKPTON. 


|HAT  shall  I  plant?  is  the  usual  question  of  thr 
improver,  not  where  shall  I  plant  or  how  will  the 
grounds  look?  If  there  is  an  open  space  or  a  nice 
dean  expanse  or  breadth  of  lawn  there  is  great 
temptation  to  plant  in  the  middle  a  tree,  a  bush,  a  flower  bed, 
or  a  rockery.  It  has  almost  become  a  belief  that  he  who  plants 
a  tree  is  a  benefactor  —  only  plant  —  never  mind  art  or 
artistic  feeling  in  the  location  of  the  tree.  Sometimes  one 
will  hear  a  remark,  —  "I  don't  need  any  plans;  just  give  me 
the  hushes;  I  can  see  it  all  in  my  eye  how  to  plant  on  the 
ground."  Such  words  are  not  infrequent  from  s<>-calle<l  pro- 
fessors  of  the  art  of  landscape  gardening  or  landscape  archi- 
tecture. Does  it  not  seem  strange  that  such  men  as  Hepton 
and  Olmstead,  masters  in  their  art,  should  need  to  make  a 
plan?  Sec  Plan  VI. 

Then  the  next  step  is  to  make  a  planting  plan  after  the 
grading  plan  has  been  finished  or  the  grading  has  hren  com- 
pleted. This  plan  should  show  in  detail  the  kind  and  number 
of  plants  to  use  to  form  the  groups  and  masse*  indicated  on  the 
preliminary  sketch. 

To  begin  with,  take  the  grading  plan  and  the  topographical 
map  and  compile  a  complete  map  of  all  the  existing  features, 
the  house  mid  the  new  changes  in  the  grounds.  Then  locate 
by  arrow  lines  the  direction  of  the  views  from  the  principal 


PLANTING    LIST. 


10 
11. 
1.'. 
13. 

n 

\6 

16 

17 

18 

I'.i 

.0 

21 

22. 

23. 


Kuonymus  radii  an-; :  25  plant - 

KvergrtH-n  Cree|n;r. 
Hedcra  Helix;  5  plants. 

Knglisli  ivy. 
Clematis  paniculata:  '.>  plants. 

Clematis. 
Lonicera  Halleana  ;   12  plants. 

Hall's  Honeysuckle. 
Wistaria  Chinensis,  2  plants. 

Chinese  Wistaria. 
Crimson  Rambler  Hose;  7  plants 

Variety    Dorothy  1'erkins. 
Ain|>cl<>pMsquinc|uefolia;  23  plant>. 

Woodbine 

l\ ah nia  latifolia ;  5  plants ;  3  ft .  apart . 

Mountain  Laurel. 

Ligustrutn  Ibota;  3  beds;  25  plants, 
3  feet  apart. 

Japan  1'rivet. 

Andromeda  floribunda;    5  plants: 
2  feet  apart. 

Lily  of  the  Valley  Bush 
Spiraea  Van  Houteii;    3  beds;    2'.t 
plants;  3  feet  apart 

Van  Houtte's  Spiren. 
Ligustrum  Kegelianum:  3  beds;  30 
plants;  2J  feet  apart. 

.-•  U'l'm.-t. 

Herlieris  Thunbergii;    2   l«ds;    17 
plants;  2  feet  apart. 

Japan  Marlx-rry. 

Viburnum    IxHitago;     -1    beds;    3H 
plants;  2}  feet  apart. 


Bbwpbemr. 

Japomra;  1 
2  feet  apart 


Cydonia  Japomra;  1  bc<l;  2  plants; 


Japanese  quince. 
Driit/ia  gracilis;   2  beds;  0  plants; 
2  feet  apart. 

Dwarf  Deutzia. 

Syinphciricarpos    vulgaris;    1   l««l; 
20  plants;  2  feet  apart. 

ln«lian  Currant. 

!><<it/ia     l-t'inoinei:     2    l«ds;     15 
plants;  2  !««•'  :<part 
I  -<-ni' .iii"     I  vui  /ri 
llx-ris  -i-i)i|)cr%  in-n-  Milicrba;  1  Ix-d; 
35  plants;  1  foot 

Eveixrei-n  Candytuft 
StrphaTian'Ira  flrxuosi;  2  btnls;   10 
plant.--  2  fi-ft    apart. 

Stcplianandra. 

Conius  rli-ganii-Hima.  h.  HI-<|  in  o-. 
L'p'iiml :    t  plants. 

I  kxrwooa. 

Ix)nic<'ia    Tart » rim;     2   b«,l        I 
pi  nit-;  3  feet  apart. 

I  nrtarian  Honeysuckle. 
Vinca  minor:  1 00  plants;  GI 
Periwinkle. 


21. 
2">. 
26. 

28. 

-'" 
30. 

31. 
32. 

3*. 
34. 

.",  '> 

:{f). 
37. 
3s. 

39. 
10. 
•11. 
42. 
43. 
11. 


Crataegus     oxycantha     coccint-a 
Horepleno;  2  pl-.nt-. 

l.nnlish  Hawthorn. 
In.llius  Euro{)cu8;    bO  plants;    1 
foot  apart. 

(Uobe  Flowrr. 
Spring  bulbs  in  edge  of  lied 
Croc-us;  Scilla:  Hyacinths 


plants:  1  foot  apart. 

Christmas  Fern. 
Aspidium  marginale;    15   plants; 

1  foot  apart. 
Evergreen  Wood  Fern. 

Di.-ksonia       punctilobula  ;        12 
pi.  mt-,  is  f.-.-t  apart. 

:llll-r     I    I  Til. 

Osnmnda  (  laytoniana:  12  p'ants; 

2  inches  apart. 
Whit,-  Cro/icr. 

Peonies;  50  plnnts:  2  fc.-t  apart. 

Name.l  \'arit-ti«-. 
Phlox:  tall  flowering;    60  plant*: 
2  feet  apart  . 

Named  varieties 

Spiraea:    Anthony    Watorer:     12 
plants:  2  feet  apart 

Anthony  \\aterer  Spirea 
Forsythia  .-usponsa;   6  plant-:    3 
leet  apart. 

Wwping  Golcta  it.  II 

New     Dwarf    Crimson     Rambler; 
5  plants. 
Maby 


Maby 
M.-ir-ly   hybrid  n><cs:    cxistini:  on 

cround:  plant  2  tcct  :ip-«n 
Manly  ix-mi'inul*  in  flowergarden 

at  n  ar  of  house. 

I'hlox    snbulata:     40    plant-.     ^ 
inches  apart. 
tlMl  i'mk. 

AlysMim    arjienteum;     10  plants; 
8  inches  apart. 

Cold  Pust. 
Dicentra   spectabiis;     10  plants; 

1    fOOt   :ip:i't 

r.l.-.dini;  1  1-  art 

I>elphininrn      pniixliflornni  :        12 
plants;   1  foot  apart. 

larkspur. 

Papaver  mulicaule;    20  pi 
be<ls:   I  f"i-t  apart. 

Iceland  Poppy. 

Arownone.    Jap'  nic  .      I.".    Man'-; 
8  i"i 

Wind  II' 

S|>irc    res«Tve<l    for    low 
annuals. 


J? 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  69 

windows  of  the  house,  the  street,  and  any  other  vantage  point 
on  the  grounds. 

Views  are  often  destroyed  by  lack  of  consideration  as  to  the 
ultimate  effect  of  the  shrubs  or  trees  planted.  Then  locate  or 
indicate  the  objectionable  features  that  should  be  hidden, 
such  as  a  neighbor's  back  door,  a  stable,  etc.  Then  proceed 
to  plot  on  the  plan  the  desirable  locations  for  the  shrubs  or 
trees  chosen. 

In  making  this  plan  the  home  builder  may  embody  many  of 
the  choice  plants  often  admired  in  some  friend's  grounds.  By 
such  consideration  many  disappointments  will  be  avoided  in 
the  failure  of  plants  to  grow.  The  shade  of  a  tree,  the  north 
side  of  a  building,  the  climatic  conditions,  or  the  quality  of  the 
soil  will  preclude  many  of  the  plants  desired.  It  will  be  found, 
however,  that  there  are  many  more  varieties  that  may  be  used 
never  thought  of  by  the  home  builder  without  such  study. 

The  size  of  the  plant  as  received  from  the  nursery  as  com- 
pared with  its  ultimate  growth  is  one  of  the  usual  forgotten 
points.  Trees  are  planted  too  closely  together  as  they  appear 
only  as  poles  at  first.  Later,  when  they  grow  and  appear  to 
crowd,  there  is  difficulty  in  getting  any  of  them  removed. 
''Woodman,  spare  that  tree"  is  one  of  the  unwritten  laws. 
Another  error  often  made  is  the  desire  to  use  too  large  a 
variety  of  trees  and  shrubs.  There  are  new  varieties  intro- 
duced and  offered  as  specialties  by  the  nurserymen  each  year 
which  are  destined  to  fail  if  the  climatic  conditions  and  soil 
preparations  are  unsuitable.  It  is  better  to  limit  the  list  to  a 
few  plants  of  sure  growth  at  the  first  planting.  Try  to  use 
plants  that  will  take  care  of  themselves. 

In  planning,  strive  to  get  simple  broad  effects  instead  of 
startling  ones.  The  novelty,  in  time,  passes  away  by  the 
latter  method  and  a  more  restful,  homelike,  and  less  expen- 
sive result  is  secured  by  the  former  plan.  Plan  to  plant  in 
groups  and  masses  rather  than  the  spotting  of  the  lawn  by 
the  use  of  individual  shrubs.  Many  a  fine  lawn  has  been 


70  How  to  Lay  Out 

ruined, by  .such  methods.  A  single  row  of  trees  or  shrubs  for. 
a  screen  is  not  so  good  as  a  broad  belt  or  plantation.  See 
Plate  XXVI.  The  row  looks  too  thin.  However,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  use  a  single  row  on  account  of  the  contracted  area 
of  the  grounds. 

f     What  shall  I  plant?  is  the  question  usually  asked,  and  not 
/where    or    how    to    make    pleasing    grouping  or    picture-like 
'arrangements.    More  than  half  the  failures  are  due  to  this 
I  misplaced,  emphasis.     It  is  the  design,  the  general  mass,  the 
I  varied  sky  line  or  outline  that  makes  the  pictures,  not  the  indiv- 
i  idual  plant.     Without  considering  the  pigments  one  looks  at 
a-  beautiful  painting  and  realizes  it  is  a  masterpiece.    Never- 
theless it  is  the  pigments  in  the  hand  of  the  master  that  makes 
the  work  of  art.    Likewise  there  are  several  kinds  of  plants 
which  may  be  used  in  the  same  situation  to  obtain  the  same 
mass  effect.    It  is  a  peculiar  fact  that  by  planting  a  place 
may,  appear  to  look  larger,  especially  if  the  border  plantations 
have  been  well  studied.    A  group  or  plantation  on  the  border 
line  not  only  protects  the  boundary,  but  gives  a  limiting  point 
for  the  eye  to  rest  upon.     If  the  interior  lawn  is  kept  free  and 
open,  the  extent  of  the  ground  is  increased.    See  Plates  XXV 
and  XXVI. 

In  planning  a  border  plantation  it  is  not  necessary  to  omit 
the  plants  in  the  border,  only  vary  it  by  the  choice  of  plants 
with  regard  to  the  height  to  which  they  will  grow.  See  Plates 
XXXI.  XXXII.  XXXIII.  a. id  XXXIV. 

Choose  plants  that  will  harmonize  in  leaf,  color,  and  form. 
unless  a  contrast  is  desired.  If  a  contrast  is  desired  it  should 
be  studied  to  avoid  making  a  spotted  appearance. 

There  are  but  few  buildings  that  do  not  look  bold  ami  ban- 
without  some  plants  to  soften  the  sharp  line  where  building 
and  ground  unite.  Plant  along  the  base  of  a  building,  not 
too  heavily,  but  enough  to  obtain  the  softening  efleet  and 
make  the  house  appear  a  part  of  the  composition.  See  Plates 
XII,  XXIX,  and  XXX. 


STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 

^Sfl 


PLATE  XXIII.     Wall  and  gate  to  kitchen  entrance.     Note  good  design  for 
gate  and  poor  bonding  in  construction  of  wall. 


PLATE  XXIV.     Brick  boundary  wall,  vine  covered,  screening 
from  the  public  gaze. 


PLATE  XXV.     Tree  and  shrubbery  embordered  lawn,  simple  yet  charming. 


PLATI,  XXVI.     Open  lawn  between  house  and  street.     House  above  street. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  75 

Do  not  cut  flower  beds  in  the  lawn  but  use  herbaceous  per- 
ennials and  plant  them  along  the  edge  of  the  shrubbery  border. 
The  shrubbery  forms  a  good  background  to  set  off  the  bloom. 

Some  people  have  a  liking  or  hobby  for  hybrid  roses,  and  the 
lawn  is  dug  into  beds  and  roses  planted  in  every  conspicuous 
place.  The  roses  are  beautiful  when  in  bloom  but  at  other 
seasons  they  are  a  group  of  straggling  briars.  The  best  way 
to  have  roses  is  to  set  apart  an  area  especially  for  them,  or 
plan  a  rose  garden. 

In  designing  the  planting  it  is  a  good  idea  to  study  nature, 
walk  along  the  roadside  or  in  the  fields  and  observe  how  masses 
are  formed  by  the  intermingling  of  the  various  trees  and  shrubs. 
These  have  character  and  grouping  that  is  often  artistically 
perfect.  Such  groups  were  formed  by  the  seeds  being  carried 
by  the  winds  or  by  birds.  They  represent  the  survival  of 
the  fittest,  the  stronger  varieties  predominating  in  the  group. 

In  planning  a  group  or  mass  the  practice  of  having  the  plants 
arranged  in  tiers  or  ranks  should  be  discarded,  as  the  result 
is  tame  and  uninteresting.  The  introduction  of  some  pointed 
or  spiry  formed  shrubs  or  trees  as  a  lombardy  poplar  at  salient 
points  gives  character  and  adds  interest  to  what  otherwise 
would  be  a  dull  and  uninteresting  plantation.  See  Plate  XXV. 

In  planning  it  should  be  remembered  that  the  plan  gives 
only  the  locations  of  the  various  features  and  plants,  and  it 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  everything  will  be  seen  in  per- 
spective when  the  plan  is  executed. 

The  human  eye  has  been  trained  to  seek  balance  of  parts 
or  symmetry  of  design.  In  fact,  nature  seems  to  be  arranged 
with  the  idea  of  balance  about  some  common  centre.  If  there 
is  one  particular  thing,  it  is  placed  in  the  centre.  If  there  are 
two,  they  are  placed  equidistant  from  the  centre.  Thus  in 
planning  the  home  grounds  there  will  need  to  be  a  sense  of 
balance  in  the  treatment.  It  is  not  necessary  always  to  have 
the  individual  shrubs  duplicated  about  a  common  axis,  although 
in  certain  instances  this  might  be  admissible.  It  is  the  gen- 


76  How  to  Lay  Out 

eral  form,  the  appearance  as  a  whole,  that  gives  the  sense  of 
balance.  See  Plates  X  X  V .  X  XVII,  and  XXXIV. 

The  ground  plan  or  outline  of  the  planting  should  show 
prominent  points  and  deep  bays;  the  extent  of  one's  grounds 
can  be  greatly  increased  by  the  appearance  of  distance  made 
by  a  plantation  bay.  In  planning  and  estimating  the  number 
of  plants  to  be  used,  the  determining  thought  should  be  whether 
the  planting  is  to  be  done  for  immediate  or  ultimate  effect.  If 
for  immediate  effect,  the  number  used  will  be  greater  than  for 
ultimate  effect.  The  plants  when  full  grown  need  plenty  of 
room,  but  if  planted  when  small  to  allow  for  the  required  -pan- 
there  will  be  large  spaces  between  the  shrubs  that  will  nerd 
to  be  kept  in  grass  and  mowed  or  filled  with  some  flowering 
perennials  that  will  cover  the  bare  ground  during  the  period  of 
growth. 

In  grouping  to  conceal  any  objectionable  object,  the  choice 
of  plants  should  be  made  of  the  kinds  that  are  evergreen,  or 
of  a  very  twiggy  nature.  If  loose  growing,  they  form  no  bar- 
rier to  the  vision  in  winter. 

Fall  and  winter  effects  can  also  be  secured  by  choosing  the 
kinds  that  are  known  to  color  well  in  the  fall  and  retain  the 
.berries  all  winter,  such  as  the  Japan  barberry. 

The  use  of  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  is  desirable  for  screen- 
ing purposes,  for  wind  breaks,  for  hedges,  for  permanent  water 
etTects,  or  for  backgrounds  for  showy  plants.  I  ninrtunately, 
the  list  of  evergreen  plant*  which  are  perfectly  hardy  in  the 
northern  part  of  this  country  is  very  limited,  yet  such  as  we 
have  arc  worthy  of  cultivation.  The  liability  of  death  from 
a  severe  winter  or  from  the  alternate  thawing  and  free/ing  in 
the  early  spring  makes  the  list  very  small.  Remarkably  fine 
( -flirts  can  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  broad  leaved  evergreens 
such  as  rhododendron  and  mountain  laurel.  It  is  also  a  safe 
rule  to  use  native  evergreens  such  as  the  white  pine  or  hem- 
lock. See  Plates  XXVII  ami  XXVIII. 


PLATE  XXVII.     Natural  style,  a  glimpse  through  hemlocks  on  the  margin  of  a 
small  estate  gives  it  a  seuse  of  great  extent. 


PLATE  XXVIII.  Natural  style  of  development.  Path  skirts  herbaceous  peren- 
nials and  shrubbery  massed  without  architectural  adornment,  white  pine* 
in  background. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  79 


CHAPTER  IX. 

You  may  be  on  land,  yet  not  in  a  garden. 

A  noble  plant  suits  not  with  a  stubborn  ground. 

The  charges  of  building  and  making  of  gardens 

are  unknown. 
Although  it  rains,  throw  not  away  the  watering 

pot. 

Fear  keeps  the  garden  better  than  the  gardener. 
A  garden  must  be  looked  unto  and  dressed,  as  a 

body.  —  GEORGE  HERBERT. 

I  HERE  is  no  more  critical  time  in  the  life  of  well 
chosen  plants  than  at  the  time  of  planting  or  trans- 
planting. Upon  this  rests  the  success  or  failure  of 
the  shrubs  and  trees  used  to  adorn  the  home  grounds. 
Of  course,  there  must  be  subsequent  care. 

There  are  several  sources  from  which  the  plants  may  be 
secured.  They  may  be  dug  from  the  fields  where  they  are 
growing  wild,  they  may  be  raised  from  seed,  they  may  be  raised 
from  cuttings,  or  by  purchase  from  a  nursery.  For  the  ordinary, 
small  suburban  home  the  latter  method  is  the  best  and  quickest 
in  producing  the  desired  results. 

Better  success  is  obtained  if  the  nursery  grown  plants  have 
been  moved  several  times  in  the  nursery  as  they  have  then 
formed  a  good  mass  of  roots  and  will  not  feel  the  shock  of  trans- 
planting or  show  the  effects  that  native  dug  plants  do.  Use 
small  plants,  especially  in  the  evergreen  class.  They  usually 
do  better  and  more  lasting  results  are  obtained  than  by  secur- 
ing larger  ones.  It  is  not  only  necessary  to  make  a  plant  live 
but  to  make  it  grow  to  have  satisfaction. 

Plants  ordered  from  the  nurseries  are  usually  dug  and  packed 
with  wet  moss  or  other  damp  wrappings  to  keep  the  roots 
moist  during  transportation.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are 
received  they  should  be  unpacked,  and  if  they  cannot  be 


8o  How  to  Lay  Out 

planted  out  immediately  they  should  be  "heeled  in,"  i.e.,  the 
roots  placed  in  a  trench  and  covered  with  moist  earth. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  earth  moist  until  the 
plants  can  be  set  out  in  the  permanent  position.  If  the  plants 
are  kept  in  the  original  wrapping  the  roots  should  be  kept 
wet. 

To  plant  a  tree  and  have  it  thrive  needs  only  thorough 
work  and  proper  care.  The  tree  hole  or  pit  should  be  dug 
broad  enough  to  take  the  roots  of  the  tree  spread  out  and  deep 
enough  to  give  sufficient  soil  for  the  new  roots  to  grow.  From 
5  to  10  feet  in  diameter  and  3  to  4  feet  in  depth,  according  to 
the  size  of  tree  and  soil  conditions,  is  none  too  little. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  pit  stir  in  a  bushel  of  well  rotted 
manure  and  mix  with  good  soil.  Then  set  the  tree  or  shrub  a 
little  lower  than  it  was  in  the  nursery,  scatter  the  earth  about 
the  roots  and  firmly  tread  so  that  no  air  spaces  remain.  If 
the  weather  is  dry  it  is  a  good  plan  to  water  the  root-  when 
planting.  Watering  also  helps  to  settle  the  earth  alxmt  tin- 
roots.  A  mulching  or  covering  of  manure,  straw,  or  leaves, 
will  prevent  the  ground  drying  out  and  thus  save  the  plants 
from  dying.  Mulching  is  especially  good  for  fall  planting. 

Stake  the  tree,  if  in  a  windy  plan-,  to  a  .-tout    pole. 
piece  of  rubber  hose  or  burlap  for  a  strap  to  hold  the  tree  to  the 
pole  and  avoid  chafing. 

The  planting  brd  ,-hould  l>e  made  two  feet  in  depth  of  good 
topsoil,  and  if  this  quantity  does  not  exist  the  sub-oil  should 
be  removed  and  good  topsoil  substituted.  1  he  -oil  -hould 
have  well  rotted  manure  mixed  with  it  before  planting  the 
shrut>s. 

It  is  a  good  rule  to  prune  the  top-  of  trees  and  -hrul><  to 
equalize  the  loss  of  roots  caused  by  moving.  This  may  not 
be  so  ornamental  when  first  set  out,  but  the  plant  -ooii  regain- 
new,  vigorous  growth  which  repays  for  the.  loss  of  the  I  •ranch-  < 
After  the  trees  and  shrubs  have  become  established  they  need 
but  little  care. 


PLATE  XXIX.     Appearance  of  house  before  planting. 


PLATE  XXX.     Appearance  of  house  after  planting.     Note  the  softening  of  the 
architecture  uniting  the  house  to  the  ground. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  83 

Should  the  shrubs  grow  too  rank,  or  if  it  appears  necessary 
to  prune,  the  best  time  is  after  the  plants  have  bloomed;  if 
before  the  plants  have  bloomed,  all  the  flower  buds  are  sac- 
rificed. For  instance,  forsythia,  spireas,  honeysuckles,  etc., 
bloom  early  in  the  summer.  They  should  be  pruned  after 
blooming  so  the  buds  will  set  for  the  next  year's  growth. 
Later  blooming  plants  like  altheas  and  hydrangeas  should  be 
pruned  in  the  winter  during  the  months  of  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. Deciduous  hedges  may  be  pruned  in  the  spring  or 
after  the  plants  have  flowered.  Evergreen  hedges  are  best 
pruned  in  May  before  the  beginning  of  the  new  growth. 

To  prune  old  trees  cut  the  limbs  close  to  the  tree.  Do  not 
leave  a  stub,  as  it  will  decay.  Paint  the  wound  with  coal  tar 
or  paint.  To  remove  large  limbs  make  the  first  cut  some 
distance  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree  and  cut  from  below,  then 
make  a  cut  from  above  and  the  limb  will  fall,  leaving  a  stub. 
Then  cut  the  stub  close  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree.  This  method 
avoids  stripping  the  bark  all  down  the  sides  of  the  tree.  By 
this  method  the  scar  will  heal  very  rapidly  by  the  bark  growing 
over  the  wound.  There  is  a  practice  or  theory  that  all  shrubs 
must  be  pruned  up  from  the  bottom  and  have  the  top  "shin- 
gled." This  is  a  very  bad  plan,  so  avoid  doing  it.  Let  them 
alone,  let  them  grow  naturally,  for  thus  is  their  full  beauty 
secured.  The  only  care  needed  in  shrubbery  beds  is  to  remove 
the  weeds,  loosen  the  earth  about  the  roots,  fertilize  when  neces- 
sary, see  that  the  plants  do  not  dry  out  and  occasionally  cut 
out  the  dead  wood. 

What  is  the  best  time  to  plant?  is  often  asked. 

Spring  is  nature's  time  for  awakening,  then  all  the  dormant 
forces  are  active  and  plants  set  out  continue  to  grow.  Spring 
is  therefore  the  best  time.  Fall  planting,  however,  is  equally 
successful  for  a  large  number  of  plants,  especially  if  they  are 
set  out  early  enough  to  allow  the  plants  to  get  established 
before  frost.  The  fall  allows  a  longer  time  in  which  to  work 
with  the  added  advantage  of  being  free  for  the  usual  spring 


84  How  to  Lay  Out 

rush.  About  October  15th  is  the  time  to  begin  planting,  vary- 
ing with  the  season  in  different  localities. 

The  time  to  plant  evergreens  is  in  April  and  May  before  the 
new  growth  begins  or  in  August  and  early  September  after 
the  growth  has  ceased. 

Kvergreens  as  a  rule  should  be  planted  in  good  soil  well 
drained.  On  no  account  should  the  roots  be  allowed  t<>  dry 
out  at  the  time  of  planting  or  later  the  plant  will  gradually 
grow  brown  or  die. 

\Vln-n  the  ground  is  ready  unwrap  the  plant  and  set  into  the 
ground  immediately,  press  the  soil  about  the  roots,  and  water 
thoroughly.  Be  sure  the  roots  are  covered  after  watering. 
Do  not  let  manure  come  in  contact  with  the  roots,  and  cut  off 
any  marred  or  broken  roots.  After  planting,  a  heavy  mulching 
of  straw,  hay,  or  leaves  will  prevent  drying  out  and  be  an  aid 
to  success.  Hedges  whether  of  evergreens  or  deciduous  plants 
are  often  better  than  a  fence  for  marking  the  boundary  of  the 
property  or  along  the  street  front.  They  are  also  useful  to 
inclose  a  laundry  yard,  flower  or  vegetable  garden. 

In  planting  a  hedge  be  sure  of  good  soil,  then  dig  a  trench 
about  2  feet  wide  and  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  depth.  At  tin- 
bottom  of  the  trench  spread  a  layer  of  well  rotted  manure  and 
mix  well  with  the  soil.  Then  set  the  plants  in  a  straight  line 
at  the  distance  decided  upon,  U  im  he-  ..r  Is  indie-  apart. 

To  double  the  number  of  plants  in  the  hedge  in  .-ett'mg  them 
out  greatly  helps  the  effect.  Alternate  the  plants  and  -pace 
about  18  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  -ettle 
the  earth  about  the  roots  of  the  plant  by  giving  them  a  gi»od 
watering  and  then  fill  in  the  hollows  with  additional  -oil  and 
water  thoroughly.  It  is  a  good  rule  to  mulch.  Set  the  plants 
a  little  lower  than  in  the  nursery  to  avoid  gap<  appearing  at 
the  base.  Prune  the  plant-  in  and  endeavor  to  get  a  good 
bushy  growth  near  the  ground. 

In  pruning  the  hedge,  the  shaj>e  adopted  should  he  one  that 
will  not  shade  the  lower  portion  of  the  plants.  A  rectangular 


PLATE  XXXI.     Appearance  of  house  and  grounds  before  treatment. 


PLATE  XXXII.     Appearance  of  house  and  grounds  after  study  and 
development. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  87 

form  is  good  or  a  rounding  form  at  the  top.  Hybrid  roses  need 
rich  soil,  an  abundance  of  sun,  close  spring  pruning,  and  close 
inspection  to  detect  insect  pests.  Should  insects  infest  imme- 
diate spraying  is  the  remedy.  The  best  time  to  prune  is  in 
March.  Cut  out  all  the  second  year  growth,  one  half  the  first 
year  growth,  and  cut  the  weak  canes  severely.  During  the 
growing  season  it  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  the  soil  stirred  about 
the  roots.  The  use  of  cow  manure  water  at  the  time  of 
blooming  greatly  improves  the  size  and  number  of  the  flowers. 
Roses  are  great  feeders.  In  the  use  of  vines,  choose  for  the 
purpose  they  are  to  serve,  whether  for  shade,  fruit,  or  flowers. 

Give  the  vines  good  depth  of  soil  and  make  a  large  pit. 
Many  failures  are  due  to  planting  vines  against  the  house  in 
but  a  few  inches  of  good  soil  which  has  gravel  and  stones  under- 
neath. Vines,  like  other  plants,  need  good  soil  and  good  manure. 
See  Plates  XXIV  and  XXXVII. 

The  revival  of  the  old  fashioned  flowers,  the  hardy  herba- 
ceous perennials,  is  bringing  into  many  a  home  the  pleasures 
that  were  enjoyed  by  the  people  of  colonial  days.  To  be  sure, 
the  art  of  using  the  home  simples  such  as  catnip,  sage,  and 
wormwood,  has  passed.  To-day  the  old  fashioned  plants  are 
grown  for  their  flowers.  See  Plates  VI,  XIX,  XXII,  XXVIII, 
XXXV,  XXXVI. 

The  great  advantage  of  using  perennials  is  their  permanent 
character.  Once  established  there  is  no  need  to  sow  or  replant 
every  spring,  as  in  the  case  with  annuals  or  greenhouse  plants, 
and  there  will  be  a  constant  yield  of  flowers  for  cutting. 

Perennials  are  good  in  an  inclosed  flower  garden,  and  on  the 
edge  of  a  lawn  in  the  front  of  a  shrubbery  border.  One  great 
advantage  in  the  use  of  perennials  is  that  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  summer  they  supply  flowers  when  other  plants 
are  out  of  bloom.  Shrubs  flower  early,  and  except  for  these, 
the  latter  part  of  August  would  be  void  of  bloom.  The  home 
builder  by  choosing  a  few  sure  growing  varieties,  will  avoid 
disappointment  from  trying  many  experimental  kinds  on 


88  How  to  Lay  Out 

account  of  the  soil  conditions  or  aspects  not  being  perfect. 
If  trees  are  near  the  flower  bed,  the  shade  may  cause  trouble 
or  the  roots  of  the  tree  may  sap  the  soil  of  all  nourishment 
unless  a  liberal  supply  of  manure  is  added  each  year.  In  plan- 
ning, choose  and  arrange  the  plants  so  that  there  will  be  a 
succession  of  bloom. 

There  is  often  difficulty  in  arranging  the  color  scheme  to 
avoid  the  clash  of  inharmonious  colors.  The  free  use  of  white 
flowering  kinds  is  a  great  help  in  reconciling  the  warring  colors. 
In  natural  planting,  every  effort  should  be  made  to  avoid 
straight  lines  or  rows  so  as  to  obviate  the  stiff  formal  effect. 

In  planting,  allow  them  room  enough  to  grow,  and  do  not 
put  the  taller  growing  plants  in  front  of  the  lower  growing 
varieties.  Start  with  the  taller  growing  plants  and  then  edge 
down  to  the  lower  growing  kinds,  but  not  in  ranks  or  tiers. 
Try  to  get  variety  in  outline  and  sky  line. 

Herbaceous  perennials  need  a  good,  deep,  rich  soil.  It  is 
well  to  make  the  bed  2  feet  in  depth  and  add  a  quantity  of 
good  well  rotted  stable  or  cow  manure.  There  is  little  care 
needed  except  to  occasionally  remove  the  weeds  and  in  the  fall 
give  a  coating  of  manure  for  winter  protection.  There  are  a 
few  kinds  of  jwrennials  that  are  better  moved  and  divided 
once  every  three  or  four  years,  but,  as  a  rule,  the  plants  should 
be  left  undisturbed. 

In  addition  to  herbaceous  perennials  a  few  bulbs  such  as 
scilla.  hyacinth,  and  crocus  planted  along  tl  :  the  border 

and  in  the  grass  give  an  early  promise  of  spring.  Care  must 
be  taken,  however,  not  to  mow  the  grass  in  the  spring  until  the 
bulbs  have  ripened  and  sets  formed  for  the  next  year. 

"How  long  before  the  shrubs  will  he  full  grown?"  That 
depends  upon  the  particular  plant.  As  a  rule,  the  first  year 
the  plants  are  set  out  they  Ix-come  established  and  get  a  new 
root  system,  the  second  year  there  is  a  fair  growth  of  the 
branches,  the  third  year  the  plants  ought  to  show  flowers  and 
be  in  good  condition. 


VLATE  XXXIII.     Appearance  of  house  and  grounds  open  to  street  after 
grading  and  before  planting. 


PLATE  XXXIV.      Appearance  of  house  after  grading  and  planting  have  been 
completed.     Note  varying  height  of  border  plantation. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  91 

STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL, 

t*OS  HNGHUGS,  CAfc. 
CHAPTER  X. 

The  circumstances  of  gardeners,  generally 
mean,  and  always  moderate,  may  satisfy  us  that 
their  great  ingenuity  is  not  commonly  over 
recompensed.  Their  delightful  art  is  practised 
by  so  many  rich  people  for  amusement,  that 
little  advantage  is  to  be  made  by  those  who 
practise  it  for  profit;  because  the  persons  who 
should  naturally  be  their  best  customers  supply 
themselves  with  all  their  most  precious  pro- 
ductions.—  ADAM  SMITH. 

j|HE  busy  man  often  finds  that  he  has  not  time  to 
devote  to  the  study  necessary  to  develop  the  plans 
for  the  home  grounds,  and  decides  it  is  better  to 
secure  the  services  of  one  who  knows  how,  or  at  least 
secure  the  verbal  advice  before  beginning  or  spending  any 
money  doing  work  that  will  later  need  to  be  undone. 

Before  doing  so,  if  the  home  builder  is  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  principles  that  govern  the  art  of  landscape  architecture, 
it  is  a  good  idea  to  secure  and  read  some  of  the  standard 
authors.  As  the  reader  goes  farther  into  the  subject  he  will 
have  a  growing  respect  for  a  profession  that  he  assumed  was 
superficial  and  perhaps  not  needed  in  developing  his  home 
grounds.  He  will  find  that  the  range  of  knowledge  required 
of  the  landscape  architect  is  greater  than  of  any  other  pro- 
fession. Besides  reading  the  standard  authors  it  is  a  good 
idea  for  the  home  builder  to  peruse  regularly  a  good  reliable 
home  gardening  publication  of  which  there  are  many  pub- 
lished. These  give  suggestions  as  to  the  treatment  of  various 
difficulties  that  arise  in  caring  for  the  grounds. 

Then  after  getting  an  idea  or  getting  into  the  atmosphere 
of  the  landscape  art  the  reader  is  in  a  position  to  appreciate 
what  a  professional  landscape  architect  will  advise. 


92  How  to  Lay  Out 

The  province  of  the  landscape  architect  or  designer  is  to 
advise  as  to  the  arrangement  of  the  grounds  and  prepare  plans 
for  their  execution.  He  will  mould  into  shape  the  ideas  of 
the  home  builder  or  suggest  entirely  new  ones.  He  is  to  pro- 
tect the  owner  from  unscrupulous  contractors  or  nurserymen 
so  as  to  secure  the  best  results  at  the  least  expense.  Choose, 
then,  a  reliable,  well  trained  man  in  whom  can  he  placed 
explicit  confidence.  As  his  remuneration  for  services  ren- 
dered is  in  the  form  of  professional  fees  there  should  be  no 
inducement  for  him  to  order  an  excessive  amount  of  work  or  a 
larger  number  of  plants  than  is  needed  to  accomplish  the 
effect.  He  should  have  nothing  to  sell — cither  materials  or 
plants.  His  knowledge,  training,  experience,  and  above  all  his 
artistic  taste,  are  his  stock  in  trade.  The  best  landscape  archi- 
tects very  rarely  advertise  commercially  and  an1  known  by 
their  experience,  training,  and  work.  Avoid  the  free  plan  idea. 
for  it  is  a  well  known  fact  that  something  for  nothing  is  rarely 
given.  There  must  be  pay  somewhere. 

The  card  of  the  landscape  architect  is  usually  on  this  order 
and  shows  the  scope  of  his  work. 

The  undersigned  offers  his  service^  to  those  who  contemplate 
the  subdivision  or  improvement  of  hind  for  -ale.  the  develop- 
ment or  revision  of  large  and  small  estates  park-,  public 
square*,  playgrounds,  the  surroundings  of  factories.  1 
and  other  public  institutions.  He  will  consult  with 
architects.  engineers  and  other<  concerning  the  pi 
buildings,  laving  out  of  drives  and  walks  grading  of 
and  the  treatment  of  old  and  new  plantation-.  In 
his  service-  an-  offered  where  the  appearance  of  tin- 
worth  consideration,  whether  in  the  arrangement  of 
or  of  the  objects  upon  it. 

A  preliminary  vi-it  and  consultation  on  the  ground  is  essential 
in  most  ca*es  to  acquaint  him  with  the  client's  wMn •>.  and  with 
the  physical  and  financial  conditions  of  the  case,  to  the  end 
that  he  may  suggest  the  most  suitable  method  of  procedure. 


PLATE  XXXV.     Terrace  garden,  herbaceous  perennials,  brick  walk. 


PLATE  XXXVI.     Herbaceous  flower  garden.     Note  the  general  mass  effect. 

p.  93 


XXXVII.     Simple  treatment  of  porch  of  ordinary  house,  softening  the 
severe  architectural  lines.     (Lot  fifty  feet  front.) 


PLATE  XXXVIII.     Simple  entrance  to  kitchen  porch  and  yard. 


Suburban  Home  Grounds.  97 

If  a  sketch  or  plan  drawn  to  scale  is  desired  a  survey  or  topo- 
graphical map  is  ordinarily  required. 

Preliminary  sketches  are  then  presented,  with  explanations, 
for  discussion,  and  when  these  are  approved  a  finished  general 
plan  follows. 

The  general  plan  can  be  staked  out  by  a  surveyor  and  car- 
ried forward  by  day  work  under  a  qualified  superintendent, 
but  the  best  results  are  rarely  obtained  without  the  occasional 
advice  on  the  ground  and  more  or  less  assistance  from  the 
designer. 

If  the  work  is  to  be  executed  under  a  qualified  superinten- 
dent, few  plans  are  required;  but  if  by  contract,  working 
drawings  and  written  specifications  are  necessary  and  such 
supervision  as  may  be  required. 

Planting  plans  for  both  large  and  small  areas,  and  in  any 
degree  of  detail,  are  prepared  when  occasion  requires.  Order 
lists  for  plants  are  made  from  reliable  nursery  catalogues  and 
the  lowest  prices  obtained  for  the  client's  benefit. 

Professional  charges  can  be  had  upon  application  by  stating 
the  nature  of  the  work  undertaken  and  the  advice  required. 
If  desired,  a  preliminary  visit  will  be  made  for  a  fee  agreed 
upon  in  advance. 

Having  secured  the  services  of  the  landscape  architect  and 
having  adopted  and  carried  out  his  plans,  due  respect  should 
be  accorded  to  the  designer  and  not  endeavor  to  improve  on 
the  design  by  planting  trees  or  shrubs  on  a  lawn  in  an  inar- 
tistic setting.  Many  a  good  design  has  been  ruined  by  the 
so-called  practical  ideas  of  the  owner,  even  in  the  process  of  the 
work,  thereby  ruining  the  conception  and  the  unity  and  beauty 
of  the  place.  It  is  only  after  such  mistakes  have  been  made 
that  the  owner  realizes  that  it  is  more  of  an  art  to  design  the 
grounds  than  it  is  to  paint  a  picture,  for  one  has  under  his 
control  the  pigments  and  can  idealize  or  omit  any  inharmo- 
nious objects  in  the  scene,  the  other  must  make  a  real  picture 
using  materials  that  are  not  always  under  his  control. 


98       How  to  Lay  Out  Suburban  Grounds. 

The  landscape  architect  in  his  position  has  more  problems 
of  revision  than  of  original  conception.  Often  the  skilled  man 
will  take  the  existing  shrubs  and  objects  upon  the  ground  and 
by  rearranging  them  secure  with  but  little  expense  a  pleasing 
and  artistic  treatment.  A  beautiful  parlor  may  be  spoiled  l>y 
the  poor  arrangement  of  the  furniture  or  by  using  inharmonious 
objects;  so  it  is  with  the  small  suburban  grounds.  One  advan- 
tage in  getting  a  professional  man  to  look  over  one's  grounds 
is  that  he  will  see  things  that  are  inharmonious  which  by 
constant  daily  observation  has  been  blunted  or  removed  from 
the  perceptions. 

In  developing  there  should  be  a  liberal  amount  of  patience 
used,  for  grass,  trees,  and  shrubs  are  not  subjects  of  man's  will. 
they  must  have  time  to  grow. 

It  is  often  a  puzzle  how  to  get  or  buy  the  plants.  If  a  pro- 
fessional adviser  is  not  employed  the  best  way  is  to  make  out 
a  list  of  the  shrubs  and  trees  desired  and  secure  estimates  from 
reliable  nurseries.  Many  nurseries  issue  illustrated  catalogues 
telling  of  the  various  plants,  sometimes  in  glowing  colors. 
However,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  secure  some  of  these  and  peruse 
them  as  a  guide,  but  they  are  not  to  be  followed  blindly.  Tin •>• 
often  tell  of  the  ultimate  size  of  the  plant,  the  soil,  and  cultural 
requirements,  the  color  and  time  of  flowering,  the  SUMIIIH T  and 
fall  effect  of  both  foliage  and  fruit,  besides  telling  the  varieties 
of  plants  that  can  be  grown  in  the  locality  other  than  the 
indigenous  kinds. 

Thus  is  the  beautiful  in  the  home  grounds  obtained,  the 
ideal  reached  by  prevision,  determination,  good  work,  and 
patience.  Never  must  the  design,  the  arrangement,  the  desired 
mass  effect  or  the  general  conception  be  lost  to  mind,  and 
the  use  of  materials  be  only  for  the  development  of  the  id. -a. 
He  that  would  attain  unto  any  height  must  strive.  There  i> 
no  royal  road  to  beautiful  grounds. 


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PLAN  VII.    Tape  measured  survey  of  Estate  "  B,"  showing  the  usual  scattered 
unstudied  treatment. 


PLAN  VIII.     Preliminary  plan  for  Estate  "  B,"  shrubs  and  flowers  moved  to 
make  a  good  design. 


STREET 


PLAN  XIV.     Topographical  map  of  Estate  "E."     Note  the  exceedingly 
difficult  topography  of  rocks,  ledges,  etc.     Area  of  estate  one  acre. 


STREET 


PLAN  XV.  Preliminary  plan  for  Estate  "  E."  Note  in  this  plan  the  cellar 
excavation  will  nearly  build  the  terrace  walls.  Material  for  levelling 
the  lawns  to  be  brought  in. 


INDEX. 


Agricultural  tile,  37. 

Arbor,  4,  43,  50,  51. 

Architectural  style,  8. 

Architect,  12,  19,  30. 

Artificial  stone,  44. 

Border  plantation,  70. 

Boulder  bank,  52. 

Brick  walk,  43,  44. 

Brook,  52. 

Bulbs,  88. 

Catch  basin,  14,  20,  37,  38. 

City  regulations,  8. 

Clothes  drying  yard,  4,  51. 

Contrast,  70. 

Convenience  in  arrangement,  16. 

Cost,  4,  7,  8,  11,  12,  15,  29,  30,  35,  76, 

84,  88,  92. 

Crown,  drive,  walk,  38,  43. 
Cross  section,  29. 
Crushed  stone,  38,  43. 
Design  of  grounds,  7,  35,  52,  70,  75, 

88,  90,  92,  97,  98. 
Drainage,  11,  19,  20,  35,  37,  55. 
Drains,  19,  20,  37,  38. 
Drives,  4,  29,  35,  36,  37,  38,  43,  92. 
Evergreens,  76,  84. 
Excavation,  30,  35,  38. 
Exposure  to  sun,  12. 
Fall  effects,  76. 
Fall  planting,  83. 
Fall  seeding,  62. 
Fences,  51,  62,  84. 
Fertilizer,  55,  61. 
Flower  garden,  4,  7, 11, 12,  16,  20,  23, 

30,  87,  88. 
Fountain,  52. 


Gardens,  4,  429. 

Garden  walk.  44. 

Grades,  29,  43,  49. 

Grading,  7,  16,  19,  35,  56,  64,  92. 

Grading  plan,  30,  35. 

Granolithic  walk,  44. 

Grass  seed,  61. 

Gravel  drive,  38. 

Group  planting,  69,  70. 

Gutter,  37. 

Hedge,  84. 

Herbaceous  perennials,  75,  76,  87,  88. 

House,  4,  12, 19,  20,  24,  29,  43,  50,  70,. 

97. 

House  lot,  16,  19,  20. 
Hybrid  roses,  75,  87. 
Improvements,  11. 
Joints  in  wall,  52. 
Kitchen,  12,  16. 
Landscape  architect,  11, 16, 29, 30, 64,. 

91,  92,  97,  98. 
Lattice  fence,  51. 
Laundry  yard,  16,  51. 
Lawn,  4,  7,  11,  16,  29,  30,  35,  36,  50,. 

51.  55,  61,  62,  64,  69,  70,  76,  84,. 

88,  97. 

Lot,  11,  15,  16,  19,  20. 
Macadam  drive,  38. 
Maintenance,  4,  36,  38,  55, 75,  76, 79, 

87,88. 

Manure,  55,  61,  80,  88. 
Mass  effect,  69,  98. 
Mulching,  80,  84. 

Natural  treatment,  4,  8,  20.  35,  88. 
Neighborhood,  11. 
North  Point,  24. 


112 


Index 


KuLsances.il,  12,  16,69,76. 

Nursery  grown  plants,  79,  98. 

Ogee  curve,  35. 

Old  fashioned  plants,  87. 

Open  lot,  16,  19. 

Owner's  mistakes,  97. 

Paths,  35,  43,  44. 

Perennials,  76,  87,  88. 

Pergola,  50,51. 

Planning,  4, 7, 29, 35. 36, 70, 90, 92, 97. 

Plantation  bay,  76. 

Planting  bed,  29,  30,  80. 

Planting  design,  7,  26,  64,  69,  70,  75, 

76,  97. 
Plants  and  Planting,  7,  12,  20,  64, 69, 

70,  76,  79,  80, 83, 87,  88, 92, 97,  98. 
Planting  plan,  64,  69 
Pools,  stagnant,  11. 
Preliminary  plan,  24,  97. 
Pruning,  80,  83,  84,  87. 
Reseeding,  61. 
Rest  net  ions,  11,  12. 
Rockery,  52. 
Rose  garden,  75,  84. 
Rustic  work,  50. 
Screening  plantation,  26, 76. 
Seat,  50. 

Seed  and  seeding,  61. 
Sewers,  11. 
Shrubs,  7,  12,  16,  19,  23,  29,  35,  30, 

69,  75,  76,  83,  84,  88,  98. 
Site,  4,8,  11,  12,  16,  23,24. 
Sod,  62. 

Soil,  1 1,  35,  37,  55,  75,  80,  87,  88. 
Specifications,  30,  97. 


Spring  planting,  83. 

Spring  seeding,  61. 

Spruce  pole  fence,  51. 

Stagnant  pools,  11. 

Strp>,  43. 

Stepping  stones,  43,  44. 

Stone,  artificial,  44. 

Street,  8,  11,51. 

Summer  house,  50. 

Surface  water,  19,  20,  37. 

Survey,  23,  24,  97. 

Tennis  court,  7,  29,  43,  62. 

Terrace,  4,  20,  51. 

Topographical  map,  23,  04,  H7. 

Telford  drive,  38. 

Topsoil,  30,  50,  80. 

Transplanting,  79. 

Transportation  facilit 

Trees,  7,  11,  12,  16,  19,  23,24,29,64, 

69,  70,  75,  80,  83,  88,  98. 
Turf  gutter,  37. 
Utilities,  7,  8,  16,  29,  36,  51. 
Vegetable  garden,  11,  20. 
Views,  4,  12,  50,  64. 
Vines,  50,  87. 
Vista,  50. 

Walks,  4,  35,  43,  45,  92. 
Walls,  19,  20,  29,  30,  43,  51. 
Water  basin,  52. 
Water  supply,  1 1 . 
Weeds,  56,61,88. 
Wind,  12. 
Winter  effects,  76. 
Working  plan,  30,  97. 
Woven  wire  fence,  51,  63. 


I'M VI  RSI  I  V  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


Ifc,  QC'l  0  <  ISbb 
I    NOV031986 
NOV26  1986 


0011968 


RECO 

QL  APR19198J 
APR 


MtW 

" 


3  1158  00976  5C 


0007745,5 


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